Extravergine

 Vi siete mai chiesti come si fa a ricavare dalle olive il magnifico, cosidetto "oro verde"? Quel prodotto di tradizione agroalimentare mediterranea e di fama mondiale? Prima di spiegare il processo passo per passo, vale la pena soffermarsi sull'aspetto storico che a me piace sempre esplorare per capire le origini dei miei interessi.

Eccelenza mondiale nella qualità dell'olio di oliva è legata al bacino Mediterraneo: dalla Spagna, Italia, Grecia e Portogallo in Europa, al Marocco e Tunisia nel Nord Africa, e infine Turchia e Siria nel Medio Oriente. L'Unione Europea nel suo complesso occupa l'80% della produzione mondiale dell'olio di oliva. Le quote minoritaire vengono prodotte nel continente americano, Australia e Giappone. Abbiamo imparato dunque che, dopo la Spagna, l'Italia è il secondo produttore dell'olio d'oliva in Europa e nel mondo. Hurraaaaaa al buon olio in casa!

Certamente ve ne siete accorti che se ne fa un largo uso anche nell'industria cosmetica: inizialmente per il sapone d'oliva e in seguito le maschere per i capelli, creme per il viso e corpo eccetera. Ma lo sapevate che un tempo si usava come combustibile per le lampade a olio?! Aiuto, che spreco!🙈

Olio d'oliva, sopratutto quello extravergine, è anche tra i prodotti alimentari più soggetti a adulterazione e  contraffazione, proprio a causa dell'alto valore commericiale. Tanto che l'ufficio antifrode dell'UE ha una vera e propria task force per il controllo e la tutela dell'olio di oliva.

Non nuoce conoscere anche gli effetti sulla salute, i benefici sul corpo, oltre a quelli sul palato deliziato: antiossidante, antiinfiammatorio e antibatterico. Da non dimenticare effetto benefico nella prevenzione di malattie cardiovascolari.

Veniamo dunque al dunque, sporchiamoci le mani! In realtà è altamente consigliabile utilizzare i guanti di protezione durante la raccolta, specialmente se si fa a mano. La raccolta in Italia avviene da metà ottobre a dicembre.

Step 1 - stesura dei teli o lenzuoli o reti intorno all'albero

Step 2 - raccolta delle olive con vari metodi: a mano, con una forca (a mo' di pettine) oppure con l'abbacchiatore meccanico (scrullatore) per raggiungere i rami più alti in minore tempo e fatica

Step 3 - raccolta delle reti e versamento in casse, stando attenti alla pulizia manuale delle foglie

Step 4 - si ripetono i primi 3 passi fino all'esaurimento degli alberi a disposizione

Step 5 - portare le olive al frantoio e il nostro lavoro manuale è finito qui.

Ci sono due tipi di oleificio. Il frantoio tradizionale utilizza la forza della gravità come motore della movimentazione del prodotto nel corso della lavorazione. Oggi è più diffuso l'impianto di movimentazione meccanica e idraulica a ciclo continuo. Io vi parlerò della mia esperienza personale con quest'ultimo.

Le olive vengono versate su un livello interrato che dosa la quantita in manciate, in modo che il processo succcessivo avvenga fatto bene. Si tratta della pulizia meccanica delle foglie mediante un soffiatoio (una specie di fon per le olive) e lavaggio delle stesse con l'acqua. Così pronte vengono di nuovo raccolte e, attraversato il processo di frantumazione, vengono raccolte in una specie di calderone ampio dove avviene la mescolatura meccanica. Questa parte del processo è la più lunga e importante. Quando il patè raggiunge una densità giusta, viene mandato al prossimo passaggio che è l'estrazione dell'olio tramite la pressa con il filtro. Ci sarà uno scarto, ma nel contenitore esterno che eroga il prodotto finale, esce fuori prioprio l'oro verde, pronto per essere consumato. Conviene portarsi dietro un contenitore per l'olio, ma nel caso ci sono delle latte vuote direttamente negli oleifici, disponibili per il consumatore.

Certamente quando hai seguito il processo dall'inizio alla fine e vedi il dolce frutto del tuo lavoro, il risultato diventa ancora più significante ed apprezzato. Ringrazio il Consorzio Terra di San Marino per avermi concesso di documentare ogni passaggio con tanto di foto e video.

Per chiudere con un cenno storico, le prime produzioni dell'olio di oliva -rigorosamente extravergine- e le tecniche di conservazione, sono stati sviluppati dagli antichi greci e romani. Tecniche rimaste immutate per secoli. Ecco a voi l'elisir dell'eterna giovinezza!

Blast from the past: SICILY

 After years of traveling in Italy that started in the '80s (my whole life basically), increased significantly in the new Millennium,  with my own astonishment I still haven't visited the largest Mediterranean island. Surprisingly enough, the right moment appeared to be under the Covid-19 pandemic. I traveled by ground and sea: crossed the whole Italian boot by car from north to south, made a short stop in Naples and surroundings and crossed the sea by boat; 11h of nighttime cruise from Naples to Palermo.

And there it was: first sight of Sicily at 6am under the sun-rising red light of Palermo. This city, founded by the Phoenicians in 734 BC, deserves by itself a whole chapter, but I'll only tell you what impressed me the most. Undoubtedly it was the Royal Palace (Palazzo dei Normanni) and more specifically rich mosaics of the royal chapel (Cappella Palatina), the best example of the Arab-Norman-Byzantine style of 12th century. But let me take a little historical step back.

Marsala

By the archeological evidence, there was human activity on the island as early as 12000 BC, but the richer evidence starts with the Phoenicians and Greek who in 750BC already had  several colonies. Carthaginians follow with dominations and wars such as the famous Punic wars against the Romans.  After the fall of Roman Empire in the 5th century AD, Sicily was ruled by Vandals, Ostrogoths and then Byzantine Empire. Around AD 827 the island falls under the Arabic domination until the arrival of the Normans. After the Hohenstaufen family comes the turn of the Spanish House of Anjou. Unified under the house of Bourbon with the Kingdom of Naples, it finally became part of Italy in AD 1860 following the expedition of the Thousand, a revolt led by Garibaldi that started in very Sicily at the port of Marsala (Lilybeum by Phoenicians, renamed Marsa-Allah by the arabs) and culminated with the battle of Calatafimi (from the arabic Qal'at Fimi, that in turn comes from latin Castrum Phimes referring to the defensive castle of Euphemius overlooking the town).

This dense part of information is to show how Sicily is rich on influences of other powerful civilizations that fought for it, dominated it, embellished it and enriched it with their own architecture (Greek, Byzantine and Norman are the prevalent ones), traditions and language (see the above Arabic names). And just to get to know better one of these civilizations who's ancestors are brought to us closer by the series TV Vikings, the ones who fascinated me personally the most...who are the Normans? As the word itself says (from the North), they were an ethnic group that was formed from contact between Norse Viking settlers of a region in France, named Normandy after them (Rollo's legacy!!!) and indigenous Franks and Gallo-Romans. After raiding the northern Europe (mainly England, Ireland, Scotland and northern France), in the Mediterranean they settled in southern Italy, liberating Sicily from 250 years long domination by the Saracens (Muslim Arabs). They adopted customs and language of the territories where they settled which made the acceptance by the dominated locals much easier.

So there I was, exploring  by car west-northern and southern part of the island, but my oh my if there are many things to see and learn! Two weeks exploring were just enough for half of the island! So I've made a vow to go back one day and visit the eastern part (Messina, Catania, Ragusa, Siracusa, Taormina being the most important visiting sites on the East, along with the volcano Etna). 

SO WHERE HAVE I BEEN? Take a map or google Sicily and follow me: the northern coast starting from Cefalù towards Palermo and Trapani, then south to Marsala and Mazara del Vallo; then back towards East around Agrigento and cutting the island in half with Caltanissetta and Enna. Of course numerous internal small towns were on the list and on the way. Some days I would visit 3-4 towns in a day. Small as a village, but with too much civilization and history not to be called "town".

WHAT HAVE I SEEN? Many many castles (basically each bigger city has one and its mostly from the Arabic - Norman age), archeological sites (Phoenician - Greek - Carthaginian age), temples and churches (Roman and Byzantine age) and beautiful emerald green and sapphire blue sea with sandy and rocky beaches. A lot of olive trees and wine grape fields.

WHAT DID I LIKE THE MOST?

Extractions of memories and flashes are still vivid in my eyes, so I'll try to picture that for you.

1. Majestic Cathedral of Monreale, little town on the hill just outside Palermo. Cathedral is not that impressive from outside as from inside with unique mosaics. With an additional ticket you can visit the hidden corridors and high balcony reaching the very top of the cathedral and from there you get to see the coast up to Palermo! 

   

   View from the Cathedral's top

   
   
2. Colorful village near Partinico decorated in vivid blue and yellow plaster in Gaudì style. 
   
   

   

   Partinico in Gaudì style

   
   
3. Castle of Euphemius has a breathtaking 360 view on the valley including the ancient Temple of Segesta and the hostoric city of Calatafimi, as well as Garibaldi's battlefield of the Expedition of the Thousand. 

   

   Calatafimi

   
   
4. Delicious dinner at the port of Castellamare Golfo, maritime village with a Castle by the sea, noted for having been the birthplace of many American mafia figures (Italian mafia in New York), it is also famous for being partly set for "Ocean's Twelve".
5. Sunset swim on the stony beach at San Vito lo Capo where Alas, I lost my handwatch! 

   

   San Vito lo Capo

   
   
6. Mesmerizing sunset at the Trapani port and delicious dinner at the legendary Restaurant "Antichi sapori" that only the locals know about (and now YOU as well!) 

   

   Trapani

   
   
7. Intoxicating smell of almond paste sweets in the small streets of Erice (you might gain weight just by looking at that crazy variety of cookies!). 

   

   Erice

   
   
8. Rose color of salty waters in Mozia, where salt is produced and exported in whole Italy.
9. Luxurious Hotel Carmine in the very city center of Marsala (yes, that's where the famous liquor is produced) and the museum of the Punic ship dated 3rd century BC. 

   

   Marsala

   
   
10. Strong Arabic spirit in Mazara del Vallo, from the language to the culinary art and a large minority of Tunisians in Kasba, being the closest point in Sicily to Africa, precisely Tunisia. 

    

    Mazara del Vallo

    
    
11. White labyrinth made of concrete at Gibellina Vecchia as a memorial to the village completely destroyed by the earthquake in 1968 and rebuilt 11km from the old one. 

    

    Cretto di Burri at Gibellina Vecchia

    
    
12. Massive archeological site at Selinunte on the hill looking over the sea, imagining the rich history it has to tell: founded by the Greek settlers in 651 BC, it had a happy, rich and dangerous situation as all the places on the border. In 409 BC it got utterly destroyed by the Elyminians and Carthaginians in one of the most terrible massacres of the ancient age. It became Carthaginian, but after the 1st Punic war it got completely abandoned. In Christian - Byzantine and Arabic era there were small communities living among the ruins, but in the  Middle Age, following a strong earthquake it got forgotten until the discovery in AD 1823. Fascinating, isn't it? 

    

    Selinunte

    
    
13. Rose - orange - purple burning seafront sunset in Sciacca and the delicious calamari with pistachio dinner, after the steep climb to the city center which stands on the top of the hill. 

    

    Tired after million climbing steps in Sciacca

    
    
14. Entertaining swim among the pool-like coves next to the striking white Scala dei Turchi, a limestone cliff on splendid crystal waters. It derives it's name (Scale of the Turks) from the historical frequent raids by the Moors ( Mediterranean Berber pirates) who the locals wrongly exchanged for Turks. Ha ha ha 

    

    Scala dei Turchi

    
    
15. Legendary Agrigento was one of the leading cities of Magna Grecia (with around 200.000 inhabitants in the 6th century BC!), called Akragas by the Greeks, Agrigentum by the Romans, Jirjant by the Berber Arabs and finally Girgenti by the Normans. It has much to offer starting from the ancient Valley of the Temples, small part of the Ellenic Akragas mostly unexcavated  until today. During the Vandalic and Ostrogoth Kingdom population retired on the hill and it's medieval structure is still visible today. 
    
    
    
    
    
    
16. Following the steps of italian writer Sciascia in his native town Racalmuto.
17. Visiting an exibition by the rebel artists of Favara.
18. Discovering a cave Calathansuderj and learning it was a hiding place since the Arabic age.
19. From the Arabic Qal'at al Nisa (meaning Fort of the Women"), italianized Caltanissetta, the city followed the usual historic domination order as the rest of the island. But what is interesting about this town is the extensive mining of sulfur from the '800 that brought an economic boom and title "sulfur capital of the world" until the WW2 when the foreign competence overpowered the industry and the city fell in poverty still visible today.
20. Navel of Sicily, city on the summit of a gigantic hill in the middle of the island is Enna and from the Norman Castle you can see, when the sky is clear, as far away as to the volcano Etna! I couldn't stop gazing the magnificent panorama at sunset, so aperitivo time came by quite fast. It is the highest Italian provincial capital at 931m above sea level. Originally called Henna, named by the Romans Castrum Hannae, by the Arabs Qasr Yannah and by the Sicilians Castrogiovanni, it only regained the original name with Mussolini in 1927. Enna is also where a Roman slave Euno started the first EVER servile uprising in 136 BC, that is 60 years before Spartacus. 

    

    Enna

    
    
21. Officialy founded (but pre-existing) in AD 1093, with the splendid and massive Norman Castle on the top of the rocky cliff, Caccamo is a perfect representative of medieval customs with the still active yearly competition of "elezione della Castellana di Caccamo", a long procession that sees ladies, Knights and flag-wavers parading in period customs. I tried to apply, but in order to be elected you need to be a resident for at least 15 years. No time traveling for me! 

    

    Castle of Caccamo

    
    
22. Cefalù is probably my favorite place so far. Maybe for the delicious food or the funny swim among the cliffs in a jacuzzi-like tabs, or the architecture of the city with the cathedral attached to the rock that is watching over the city (in fact the Greek called it Kephaloidion, for the rocks shape like a head). Small colorful streets are so romantic and cute and that's where I bought my first Coppola cap, a traditional kind of flat cap typically worn in Sicily. 

Cefalù

Completing the circle with Palermo, if you want to go deeper into the island's customs, I am advising a book that I found in a second hand library titled "Calvello il bastardo" by Luigi Natoli. It is set in 1792 still monarchic Palermo and it gives you a clear picture of the society, traditions and customs of the age. From the actual historic events to the romance and suspense, nothing is missing in this easily flowing bestseller.

View on Palermo from the hotel balcony

I didn't mention so far the Mafia, but it appears quite inevitable when talking about Sicily. It is not my homework to teach the history or discuss about it, but I will mention the still visible traces that I saw all along my journey, mostly in the internal area around Corleone. I am talking about the "usual" summer fires, manmade arsons as a revenge by the mafia for the confiscated lands organized today by the state cooperatives. Some of those fires in the areas that can self heal are rejuvenating for the flora, but I saw entire fields of olive trees burning. 

WHICH FOOD SHOULD YOU TRY IN SICILY? 

• Undoubtedly granita siciliana (Sicilian slushie) made of real almond or pistachio, no syrup. You will recognize the difference once you try the real one unique taste, but unfortunately the industrial made granita is being sold more and more as the traditional one is more expensive and difficult to prepare. The best ones I've tried are in bar "Morocco" in front of the Palermo cathedral and in a cute bar in Sciacca.
• Almond paste sweets in a rich variety of forms and flavors: there are plenty of artisan pastry shops in Erice.
• Canolo siciliano is a typical world known Sicilian sweet, but I am not so crazy about it. Still, give it a try!
• Cassata siciliana, it's the typical Eastern cake made in Palermo 
• Fish-based pasta, because fish in Sicily is fresh, tasty and they know very well how to cook it, so that you'll lick your fingers until the last drop of the sauce!
• Fish-based cous cous is widely consumed around Trapani area.
• Arancino siciliano is a fried rice ball with a melted heart in cheese or meat.
• Caponata is the eggplant Parmigiana, loved in whole Italy, but originally from Sicily.

I will close this chapter by remembering the extreme heat even though I traveled in September. After all in Sicily we're so close to Africa that I would gaze the sea and think about my Tunisian friends on the other side. That heat didn't disturb me at all, it actually felt quite familiar: after 6 years spent in the Emirati desert, nothing under 40" Celsius is too much.