Umbria, the green heart of Italy

 Have you ever been to Umbria? If you've heard about Assisi and St. Francis who founded the Franciscan religious order, then you know which region I am talking about. And you probably remember countless mountains full of olive trees. Mount Subasio towers over the vast valley full of small medieval villages that only have about 5000 inhabitants each or even less.

View upon Spoleto from the fortress

You can plan your visit in less than a week journey and still see and learn a lot. Probably you will go to nearby regions as well, but today I want to talk about Umbria only. Let's start with basics: it is the only landlocked region in Italy and the region capital city is Perugia, also a very important university center.

Since I booked my stay literally the same day I traveled, everything was pretty much overbooked or extremely over priced. It is important to stress about the fact that we're in August. In Italy. Translation is that you better stay at home if you can and save your money for September when the traveling is significantly more pleasant. BUT if you cannot, then book well in advance because WHOLE ITALY is on vacation in August. Anyway, I was saved by the gentle readiness of the friars of the Monteripido monastery. Not only the stay was comfortable, clean and private, but the view over Perugia was just spectacular! And their library is a must see.

Monteripido Monastery

So, Umbria: this region is bordered by Tuscany, Marche and Lazio, so no wonder it's landscape is astonishing green and the history is rich. In fact the region takes its name by its people Umbri, italic people who got absorbed by the roman expansion. During the integration under the Roman rulers, via Flaminia was build (we're still in 219 BC!). That road became a main vector in the region and it is still used today!!! Can you believe it?

Spoleto 

After the Roman Empire fall, there came the Ostrogoths, the Byzantines and the Lombards, so when Charlemagne conquered most of the Lombard kingdoms, some territories were given to the Pope who became the ruler. In the Middle Age the most common conflicts were between the Guelphs (supporting the Pope) and the Ghibellines (supporting the Holy Roman Empire). In my article about Sicily you will find some historical information about the Norseman in Italy. Well they got to Umbria as well, so following our favorite via Flaminia, we will visit a couple of those cute historical villages.

Just outside Perugia there is Ipogeo Volumni (Hypogeum of the Volumnus family), an Etruscan tomb dated around 3rd century BC. The entry is so small that you might easily miss it, but once entered you'll discover the biggest necropolis with many subterranean tombs which can be entered. In the museum funerary urns and other artefacts are displayed. That gave me some ideas about where I would like my rests to rest, kinda appreciating Etruscan tradition. The Volumnus tomb itself is accessed by a staircase that goes underground for several meters leading to the funerary chambers. It realy is fascinating!

Ipogeo dei Volumni

Funerary urn

The entry to the main funerary chambers

What is the keyword for Spello? Surely it is "FLOWERS"!!! In the summertime there is a competition on who has the most beautiful flowers, so all the inhabitants would put their best on the porch, for everyone to see. It must be magic happening to be there just then. During Infiorate for the Corpus Domini feast, people work all night long in order to create carpets made of flowers: a one mile-long flowering path in an explosion of colors and scents.

Panorama upon Spello

Spello

City of Infiorate

Montefalco is famous for the excellent red wine Sagrantino, but there is more to it. In AD1249 it got sacked by Federico II (see the above link about Sicily) who also named it after the conspicuous presence of the falcons. Today the mount stands, but the falcons are nowhere to be seen. But besides a town door/gate named after the emperor, you will find a breathtaking panorama on the Topino valley.

Montefalco

Another town touched by the Norseman is Bevagna. In AD1152 emperor Federico Barbarossa (Federico II's grandfather) set it on fire because the village supported the Pope. Today the most famous event in town is the festival Mercato delle Gaite: the whole population participates with medieval banquets, processions, taverns and challenges. It is reassuring to know that someone in the world still knows the craftsmanship. If ever a worldwide emergency situation occurs, something like in the series "The 100", well I know where to go in order to survive! 

Bevagna

Spoleto is surely the most important of them all, having become at a certain point the capital of the independent Duchy of Spoleto during the Lombards (more precisely from AD 570) and ruling a considerable part of central Italy. Some of its Dukes rose to become emperors during the Holy Roman Empire. Once again Barbarossa brought destruction in AD1155, in fact for the main part of its history Spoleto was a papal city, not supporting the Empire. You can observe the marvelous view upon the city and the valley from the majestic fortress Rocca Albornoziana. The city itself is all up and down the hill, so today there are plenty of escalators taking you to a desired "station", it is quite fun using them! There is a large staircase taking you down the hill to the Cathedral and the view is just amazing. Built in Romanesque style around AD1175, it has paintings from Filippo Lippi and a manuscript letter by Saint Francis of Assisi. There is a Roman theater hosting the Festival dei Due Mondi, a 3-week schedule of dance, theater and performances. 

Spoleto Aperitivo

I have skipped talking about Perugia and Assisi because they deserve a whole chapter for themselves. Lake Trasimeno and Marmore falls are surely worth visiting and are still pending on my bucket list, as well as Gubbio that I've only seen under the rain passing through in a car, so back to the bucket list.

Bottom line, I'll be back Umbria! How about you?

JMK for Mykonos

 After decades of knowing each other (with my sister, hahaha), we finally went for an all-girls-trip together, YAY! She decided everything: the destination, the dates, the flight, the hotel, the rent a car etc. Very proactive girl!

Mykonos from above

Soooo, destination MYKONOS! This little island of Cyclades bears quite a legend about itself: it was named after its first ruler Mykonos and in Greek mythology it has been the location of the Gigantomachy, the great battle between Zeus and Giants. Hercules lured the invincible Giants from the protection of Mount Olympus and killed them here. So according to the myth, the large rocks all over the island are nothing else than the petrified corpses of the Giants!

In fact Mykonos is quite a rocky granite island, arid too, also due to the strong winds that gave it a nickname "the Island of the winds". It stretches over the area of 85.5 square kilometres, so you can reach any part of the island in less than 30 minutes by car, bus, motorcycle or quad which is very popular nowadays.

Windmills in Chora

What is peculiar to the color of Chora (the main city, homonymous of the island) and we can see it replicated to the other villages too, is the White. The reason for this almost blinding whiteness in contrast with the dark rocks and blue sea is very practical: candid layers of lime all over the houses, walls and even stone paved alleys, origins in hygiene! Milky lime protects from the great heat and it also has disinfectant action. Well by now you know it also became a landscape symbol in Greece overall. 

There is a great abundance of churches on the island, because for many years the islanders were required to build a church on their land before building a house. But mostly these domed chapels were built by former fisherman and sailors. I saw an abandoned fisherman's village at Kalafati (South-Eastern part of the island) and right next to it an exclusive beach of Agia Anna, a raising empire of resorts for tourists.

Chora Mykonos

Since we're talking about exclusiveness, let me give you a practical picture of a nowadays tourism on the island. First of all it is of a vital importance the period when you're traveling. In my opinion June and September are the best option being just before the season opening (which happens after the 15th June) or closure (end of August). If you travel in this period you will find great deals both for the flights and accommodation (for instance, you can fly from Italy to Mykonos for less than 100€ back and forth, find a hotel room for less than 50€/night in the city center and rent a car for 30/40€ per day). Also the traffic will be inexistent and you will get a good treatment wherever you go because hosts have time to dedicate themselves to the guests. If you prefer to be there during the peak season, brace yourself for the prices and crowded places. Unless you can afford a villa, a yacht and exclusive passages, I assure you'll suffer.

Traveling during the post-pandemic year, I was lucky to get there on the very first day music was allowed in the public places all over the island. I stayed for a week and went away just in time when the crowds were coming! Couldn't have planned it better! I will also recommend Petinaros Hotel: the rooms are modern with all the necessary facilities in a typical Greek style architecture, there is a wonderful pool where you can chill at anytime, staff is just amazing and it is only 10 minutes walk from the center. It is on the hill, so walking down to the city, a great panorama will reveal itself quite soon. But do take sneakers and a hat, wherever in the island you're staying - because there are plenty of steps and it gets really hot during the day (despite the whiteness) as soon as the wind calms down. Also until the pandemic is on-going, you're most likely gonna be required to take a Covid19-rapid test in order to fly back home. For that I recommend Mykonian Hygeia Polyclinic: they are fast, courteous and effective. The cost is 20€ and you can get your results the same day. It is located just above the Mykonos city and it has a parking area (but it is walking distance from the Petinaros Hotel 😊). You don't need to book it, just go in the opening hours which are 8am to 10pm.

But let me give you a tour of main landmarks of the island. In the main city Chora/Mykonos, the most popular place to see is Alefkandra qurter, better known among the tourist as Little Venice, so cold because of the characteristic houses with wooden balconies over the sea. There you will find plenty of restaurants and bars where you can admire a breathtaking sunset or have party later at night. South of Little Venice there are windmills, symbol of the island. The most characteristic church is surely Panagia Paraportiani from the XVII century, made of 4 chapels on two levels and unified by the white layers of lime. Downtown city is a white labyrinth full of souvenir shops, galleries and bars, decorated by the typical bougainvillea tree with purple flowers.

Little Venice

Moving around the island, up north there is a scenographic lighthouse Armenisti that is worth visiting if you appreciate the scenario of an abandoned lonely beacon. The panorama around is marvelous, it really gives you the idea how rest of the island is. And remember the story of the Giants? Well pay attentions to those rocks, you might recognize some forms!

Armenisti Lighthouse

 In the very heart of the island there is a village Ano Mera with the main attraction being the monastery of Tourliani, founded in XVI century. The main square of the village is full of restaurants where you can taste the traditional Greek cuisine. But what only a handful of tourist know is that 5 minutes from Ano Mera, on the top of the hill, there is Paleokastro, the old Venetian fortress from the XIV century. Next to the ruins there is another cute monastery and a 360* panorama of the island. 

Ano Mera

If you feel like exploring deeper the history, mythology and archeology of the area, there are daily tours to the nearby island of Delos, the cultural center of the Cyclades (being the other islands arranged in the circle around Delos which historically was the center). Today Delos archeological site is the most important existing from the Hellenic heritage, together with Delphi and Olympia. Here is where, according to the myth, the most famous Gemini of the classical mythology were born: Artemis and Apollo, fruit of love between Zeus and his lover, Titaness Leto. In 543BC Athenian tyrant Pisistratus ordered the first purification of the island: the dead got taken to the nearby island of Rinia, but it was from 426BC that it was definitely forbidden to die or be born on Delos, the sacred island. A distinctive archeological masterpiece today is the so called "Terrace of the Lions" built in the 7th century BC in marble. One of those lions is today in front of the Venetian Arsenal.

Now back to nowadays! This is the moment when I'm talking about daytime and nighttime fun. Mykonos, the island of transgression and of fun and crazy nights. But it wasn't always like that! Only in the 1960' the island became a popular destination for European and American artists and intellectuals. Today mass tourism is prevailing, even though the exclusiveness of some places is quite palpable. Starting from the most popular 180* Sunset Bar where you can enjoy undoubtedly the most beautiful sunset in Mykonos. It is fascinating with plenty of Instagrammable corners and your eyes will be full of beauty...except for the fact that they make a fool of people! You better book your entrance in advance in order to skip the queue and keep in mind that Entry starts from 20€ which will include a standing drink. If you want a drinking table, that will be 60€ per person. In case you dare taking a table for food too, that will be 100€ per person. There is a rope that outlines clearly where you can and cannot go, reminds me somewhat of the fence for animals. In case you dare stepping one foot out of line to take a photo,  you'll immediately get reminded of your place. A cherry on the top is the parking price at the exit: 15€. Altogether the arrogance of the waiters make the atmosphere quite uptight and spoils the whole experience.

180 Sunset Bar

Much more enjoyable lounge bar, still having the same standard prices from above, but with a completely different human approach of the workers, is Scorpios. Truly exclusive with a private docking for the yachts, it has a bit of sparkle for every pocket. Live music is enthralling, sunset is also amazing, but you need to come before the actual sunset because -being in the Bay- the sun will disappear behind the rocks. Cocktails are original and served with enthusiasm. My favorite corner is the fire on the beach and people dancing around it, just like the old tribal traditions. At the certain moment you might be thinking that your are on some fashion event surrounded by beautiful girls from all over the world, true and unreal mermaids of every kind! You may dine there as well, but nearby there are some cute restaurants too, with a romantic set on the beach.

Last but not the least, Super Paradise, the most famous place on the island. Not the most beautiful but surely the most fun. It is here that you will find vent to your deepest transgressions in every possible way. For me it was enough dancing (for the 1st time after the long Pandemic year) for hours and hours with the great music, encouraged by the "dreadful" waiters both male and female and being the heart of the small party (as usual 😅). I'm sure I have seen only the surface of what this place can offer.

Super Paradise Beach

As the last topic, I want to talk about the beaches. There are so many to discover and again, for all pockets. From the free and wild ones where you can go with the tent, to the most exclusive, or lets precise more expensive (but not the most beautiful) ones. For instance in Psarou beach, favorite Bay of the millionaires where all the yachts are parked, a simple beach chair will cost 150€, unbelievable right? But my favorite by far was Paralia Kalo Livadi with wide white beach chairs, amazing lounge music, tasty cuisine and cocktails (you have to try the Greek yoghurt with honey and nuts!) and sparkling emerald water on the soft white sand. Could stay there forever!

Paralia St.Stefan

With this splendid image of freshness I leave you to your imagination of paradise. I have found some in Mykonos!

Kalafati Beach

Space Crew in DFW

 Let me introduce you to the wonderful Space Crew that made our Dallas layover one of my favorites EVER! I'll call them by their flags: Romania, Slovakia, Serbia (oh, that's me), the UK and  Australia.

Direction: NASA

Space Crew: Romania, Slovakia, Serbia, the UK, Australia

Well, you know it from the briefing room: if you click with people from the very start, the whole journey is promising! And that's exactly what happened before that ultra long haul 14h flight from Abu Dhabi to Dallas. As usual we all met for the first time in our lives that same morning - perfect strangers. The fact that the layover itself was longer than usual (don't get comfortable, I'm talking about 48h layover) AND the interest we had in common about exploring the surroundings, probably helped boosting the atmosphere. We all wanted to visit NASA!!!! Yaaaaaaaaah!

Independence Shuttle on the shuttle-carrier Boeing 747

But after all, only a coincidence of that crazy people all in one place are assurance to have such a great time! So we rented a car that could fit 6 people and hit the road. It's a bloody 4h30 drive from Dallas to Houston, but that was the closest point we were flying to. So total of 10h drive in a day, back and forth from Dallas to Huston and back. By the end of the day we knew everything about each other and we created that special bond that only Crew know how. We had a great time all along: playing mind games in the car, listening to music or simply sharing stories of our lives. That's how Slovakia and I discovered we both worked in the past (actually in the same year, 2013) for the big commercial airline based in Dubai. Who knows if we EVER flew together before?! 👀

Space Crew visiting NASA

The visit to NASA was extraordinary, we learned so much and had a great fun. Space Center Houston is where you can see astronauts train for missions, touch a real moon rock and have fun all along. You can go on board of a full size shuttle replica Independence mounted on top of the original shuttle carrier aircraft (it's a Boeing 747). Just imagine these two birds flying attached: must have been a memorable sight for whoever got the chance to glimpse on it! I have Independence mission patch on my jacket since that day! But the huge hangar hosting the mighty and massive Saturn V rocket is the most impressive thing you'll see or touch. Saturn V-like rockets flew from 1967 to 1973 and launched 26 astronauts into space with 6 successful missions landing men on the Moon What a power!!! 

Saturn V rocket

Saturn V rocket

 

Rocking the rocket!

What a day!!! Since then this group of people is named Space Crew. Many things we've done together since that day, like running on Go karts in Yas Marina... 

Go Kart at Yas Island

...Running (and falling into water) on Aquafun slide rafts on Al-Bahar beach. Oh, what a muscle ache we all had the day after, the only time in my life I felt every inch of my body in pain!... You wouldn't believe how tiring is to move around in and out of the water.

Floating slide-raft at Aquafun, Abu Dhabi

Aquafun at Corniche, Abu Dhabi

...Chilling in the pool with food, drinks and dj set at Montecarlo Saadiyat Island? Burst of happiness all in one!... 

Montecarlo beach club, Saadiyat Island

...Exploring Al-Maya island during the National day Air Show Fighters F-16 jets exhibition? The Air Show usually takes place above the Corniche, which made it perfectly visible from Al-Maya island, while we were sipping our cocktails by the pool.

Boat trip to Al-Maya island

,,,and even celebrating New Years in the desert, on a private party in the newly constructed Masdar city with fireworks view on Yas Island (I remember that last minute run for the better view, the out of tune singing out loud in the bus on the way back and...me being the only sober because I was on standby the day after!)

I don't even know all this people, but we had a great Silvester party

...We flew together again both as passengers and Crew, working together like on that fabulous flight to Thailand with the layover in Phuket that deserves it's own story apart!

Phuket layover 

But one special trip with the UK was to Dubai to see an interactive theater play of "the Great Gatsby" directly on the retired British ocean liner QE2 (because it was indeed the Queen Elisabeth II's cruise ship), converted since 2018 into a floating hotel and now docked in Dubai, after royally sailing around the world for 39 years. Hold on, too much information - did you get it right?!! Freely walking on an immense Titanic-sized ship used by the Queen Elisabeth II... while taking active part in an interactive theatrical play (meaning the actors and the spectators would mix in the crowds and you wouldn't be able to tell who's acting and who's just watching)... But the icing on the cake was that the play in question was The Great Gatsby!!! And we were all requested to dress accordingly (meaning 1920's style) so that surely helped a lot in mingling! What a show, it still gives me goosebumps! I'll just tell you I listened to live music, danced, had a great buffet, talked to countless unknown people, walked around the ship inside out, found a piano and played it, got arrested for playing the piano, got bailed out by the UK, got some more drinks and dance and I'll stop right there (it was all part of the play you silly! My criminal record is immaculate). Memorable evening!

Great Gatsby interactive theater on QE2, Dubai

Last time I saw my Space Crew was when the World Pandemic 2020 separated all our ways (for now). So we met once more before parting, a tasty dinner and cocktail with lots of laughter and...well it's just funny that after all those years of friendship, only now (and JUST by chance) we discovered that...actually me and Slovakia DID fly together in the past in our previous airline! And that happened to be my suppy flight, a turnaround to Istanbul! So from my very first flight as a Flight Attendant, I had my Space Crew with me all along!!! Isn't that miraculous? How did we discover it only now? Because thanks to Facebook memories (you know, when the app is suggesting you some old memories of yours posted years ago) I posted on old photo of mine from my 1st ever flight and well...she recognized herself on it!!! Ahahaha it's unbelievable!

Once upon a time and now

We're still in touch, sharing updates on our lives that changed so much and we have our only survivor, Mr.Romania still keeping the flying flag high! Direct message: seeing you on Zoom party was fun, but I can't wait to hug you all again one day! Love you Mashallas!

Zoom party

All we have left is...SPACE?