After decades of knowing each other (with my sister, hahaha), we finally went for an all-girls-trip together, YAY! She decided everything: the destination, the dates, the flight, the hotel, the rent a car etc. Very proactive girl!
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| Mykonos from above |
Soooo, destination MYKONOS! This little island of Cyclades bears quite a legend about itself: it was named after its first ruler Mykonos and in Greek mythology it has been the location of the Gigantomachy, the great battle between Zeus and Giants. Hercules lured the invincible Giants from the protection of Mount Olympus and killed them here. So according to the myth, the large rocks all over the island are nothing else than the petrified corpses of the Giants!
In fact Mykonos is quite a rocky granite island, arid too, also due to the strong winds that gave it a nickname "the Island of the winds". It stretches over the area of 85.5 square kilometres, so you can reach any part of the island in less than 30 minutes by car, bus, motorcycle or quad which is very popular nowadays.
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| Windmills in Chora |
What is peculiar to the color of Chora (the main city, homonymous of the island) and we can see it replicated to the other villages too, is the White. The reason for this almost blinding whiteness in contrast with the dark rocks and blue sea is very practical: candid layers of lime all over the houses, walls and even stone paved alleys, origins in hygiene! Milky lime protects from the great heat and it also has disinfectant action. Well by now you know it also became a landscape symbol in Greece overall.
There is a great abundance of churches on the island, because for many years the islanders were required to build a church on their land before building a house. But mostly these domed chapels were built by former fisherman and sailors. I saw an abandoned fisherman's village at Kalafati (South-Eastern part of the island) and right next to it an exclusive beach of Agia Anna, a raising empire of resorts for tourists.
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| Chora Mykonos |
Since we're talking about exclusiveness, let me give you a practical picture of a nowadays tourism on the island. First of all it is of a vital importance the period when you're traveling. In my opinion June and September are the best option being just before the season opening (which happens after the 15th June) or closure (end of August). If you travel in this period you will find great deals both for the flights and accommodation (for instance, you can fly from Italy to Mykonos for less than 100€ back and forth, find a hotel room for less than 50€/night in the city center and rent a car for 30/40€ per day). Also the traffic will be inexistent and you will get a good treatment wherever you go because hosts have time to dedicate themselves to the guests. If you prefer to be there during the peak season, brace yourself for the prices and crowded places. Unless you can afford a villa, a yacht and exclusive passages, I assure you'll suffer.
Traveling during the post-pandemic year, I was lucky to get there on the very first day music was allowed in the public places all over the island. I stayed for a week and went away just in time when the crowds were coming! Couldn't have planned it better! I will also recommend Petinaros Hotel: the rooms are modern with all the necessary facilities in a typical Greek style architecture, there is a wonderful pool where you can chill at anytime, staff is just amazing and it is only 10 minutes walk from the center. It is on the hill, so walking down to the city, a great panorama will reveal itself quite soon. But do take sneakers and a hat, wherever in the island you're staying - because there are plenty of steps and it gets really hot during the day (despite the whiteness) as soon as the wind calms down. Also until the pandemic is on-going, you're most likely gonna be required to take a Covid19-rapid test in order to fly back home. For that I recommend Mykonian Hygeia Polyclinic: they are fast, courteous and effective. The cost is 20€ and you can get your results the same day. It is located just above the Mykonos city and it has a parking area (but it is walking distance from the Petinaros Hotel 😊). You don't need to book it, just go in the opening hours which are 8am to 10pm.
But let me give you a tour of main landmarks of the island. In the main city Chora/Mykonos, the most popular place to see is Alefkandra qurter, better known among the tourist as Little Venice, so cold because of the characteristic houses with wooden balconies over the sea. There you will find plenty of restaurants and bars where you can admire a breathtaking sunset or have party later at night. South of Little Venice there are windmills, symbol of the island. The most characteristic church is surely Panagia Paraportiani from the XVII century, made of 4 chapels on two levels and unified by the white layers of lime. Downtown city is a white labyrinth full of souvenir shops, galleries and bars, decorated by the typical bougainvillea tree with purple flowers.
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| Little Venice |
Moving around the island, up north there is a scenographic lighthouse Armenisti that is worth visiting if you appreciate the scenario of an abandoned lonely beacon. The panorama around is marvelous, it really gives you the idea how rest of the island is. And remember the story of the Giants? Well pay attentions to those rocks, you might recognize some forms!
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| Armenisti Lighthouse |
In the very heart of the island there is a village Ano Mera with the main attraction being the monastery of Tourliani, founded in XVI century. The main square of the village is full of restaurants where you can taste the traditional Greek cuisine. But what only a handful of tourist know is that 5 minutes from Ano Mera, on the top of the hill, there is Paleokastro, the old Venetian fortress from the XIV century. Next to the ruins there is another cute monastery and a 360* panorama of the island.
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| Ano Mera |
If you feel like exploring deeper the history, mythology and archeology of the area, there are daily tours to the nearby island of Delos, the cultural center of the Cyclades (being the other islands arranged in the circle around Delos which historically was the center). Today Delos archeological site is the most important existing from the Hellenic heritage, together with Delphi and Olympia. Here is where, according to the myth, the most famous Gemini of the classical mythology were born: Artemis and Apollo, fruit of love between Zeus and his lover, Titaness Leto. In 543BC Athenian tyrant Pisistratus ordered the first purification of the island: the dead got taken to the nearby island of Rinia, but it was from 426BC that it was definitely forbidden to die or be born on Delos, the sacred island. A distinctive archeological masterpiece today is the so called "Terrace of the Lions" built in the 7th century BC in marble. One of those lions is today in front of the Venetian Arsenal.
Now back to nowadays! This is the moment when I'm talking about daytime and nighttime fun. Mykonos, the island of transgression and of fun and crazy nights. But it wasn't always like that! Only in the 1960' the island became a popular destination for European and American artists and intellectuals. Today mass tourism is prevailing, even though the exclusiveness of some places is quite palpable. Starting from the most popular 180* Sunset Bar where you can enjoy undoubtedly the most beautiful sunset in Mykonos. It is fascinating with plenty of Instagrammable corners and your eyes will be full of beauty...except for the fact that they make a fool of people! You better book your entrance in advance in order to skip the queue and keep in mind that Entry starts from 20€ which will include a standing drink. If you want a drinking table, that will be 60€ per person. In case you dare taking a table for food too, that will be 100€ per person. There is a rope that outlines clearly where you can and cannot go, reminds me somewhat of the fence for animals. In case you dare stepping one foot out of line to take a photo, you'll immediately get reminded of your place. A cherry on the top is the parking price at the exit: 15€. Altogether the arrogance of the waiters make the atmosphere quite uptight and spoils the whole experience.
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| 180 Sunset Bar |
Much more enjoyable lounge bar, still having the same standard prices from above, but with a completely different human approach of the workers, is Scorpios. Truly exclusive with a private docking for the yachts, it has a bit of sparkle for every pocket. Live music is enthralling, sunset is also amazing, but you need to come before the actual sunset because -being in the Bay- the sun will disappear behind the rocks. Cocktails are original and served with enthusiasm. My favorite corner is the fire on the beach and people dancing around it, just like the old tribal traditions. At the certain moment you might be thinking that your are on some fashion event surrounded by beautiful girls from all over the world, true and unreal mermaids of every kind! You may dine there as well, but nearby there are some cute restaurants too, with a romantic set on the beach.
Last but not the least, Super Paradise, the most famous place on the island. Not the most beautiful but surely the most fun. It is here that you will find vent to your deepest transgressions in every possible way. For me it was enough dancing (for the 1st time after the long Pandemic year) for hours and hours with the great music, encouraged by the "dreadful" waiters both male and female and being the heart of the small party (as usual 😅). I'm sure I have seen only the surface of what this place can offer.
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| Super Paradise Beach |
As the last topic, I want to talk about the beaches. There are so many to discover and again, for all pockets. From the free and wild ones where you can go with the tent, to the most exclusive, or lets precise more expensive (but not the most beautiful) ones. For instance in Psarou beach, favorite Bay of the millionaires where all the yachts are parked, a simple beach chair will cost 150€, unbelievable right? But my favorite by far was Paralia Kalo Livadi with wide white beach chairs, amazing lounge music, tasty cuisine and cocktails (you have to try the Greek yoghurt with honey and nuts!) and sparkling emerald water on the soft white sand. Could stay there forever!
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| Paralia St.Stefan |
With this splendid image of freshness I leave you to your imagination of paradise. I have found some in Mykonos!
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| Kalafati Beach |
