Have you ever been to Umbria? If you've heard about Assisi and St. Francis who founded the Franciscan religious order, then you know which region I am talking about. And you probably remember countless mountains full of olive trees. Mount Subasio towers over the vast valley full of small medieval villages that only have about 5000 inhabitants each or even less.
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| View upon Spoleto from the fortress |
You can plan your visit in less than a week journey and still see and learn a lot. Probably you will go to nearby regions as well, but today I want to talk about Umbria only. Let's start with basics: it is the only landlocked region in Italy and the region capital city is Perugia, also a very important university center.
Since I booked my stay literally the same day I traveled, everything was pretty much overbooked or extremely over priced. It is important to stress about the fact that we're in August. In Italy. Translation is that you better stay at home if you can and save your money for September when the traveling is significantly more pleasant. BUT if you cannot, then book well in advance because WHOLE ITALY is on vacation in August. Anyway, I was saved by the gentle readiness of the friars of the Monteripido monastery. Not only the stay was comfortable, clean and private, but the view over Perugia was just spectacular! And their library is a must see.
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| Monteripido Monastery |
So, Umbria: this region is bordered by Tuscany, Marche and Lazio, so no wonder it's landscape is astonishing green and the history is rich. In fact the region takes its name by its people Umbri, italic people who got absorbed by the roman expansion. During the integration under the Roman rulers, via Flaminia was build (we're still in 219 BC!). That road became a main vector in the region and it is still used today!!! Can you believe it?
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| Spoleto |
After the Roman Empire fall, there came the Ostrogoths, the Byzantines and the Lombards, so when Charlemagne conquered most of the Lombard kingdoms, some territories were given to the Pope who became the ruler. In the Middle Age the most common conflicts were between the Guelphs (supporting the Pope) and the Ghibellines (supporting the Holy Roman Empire). In my article about Sicily you will find some historical information about the Norseman in Italy. Well they got to Umbria as well, so following our favorite via Flaminia, we will visit a couple of those cute historical villages.
Just outside Perugia there is Ipogeo Volumni (Hypogeum of the Volumnus family), an Etruscan tomb dated around 3rd century BC. The entry is so small that you might easily miss it, but once entered you'll discover the biggest necropolis with many subterranean tombs which can be entered. In the museum funerary urns and other artefacts are displayed. That gave me some ideas about where I would like my rests to rest, kinda appreciating Etruscan tradition. The Volumnus tomb itself is accessed by a staircase that goes underground for several meters leading to the funerary chambers. It realy is fascinating!
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| Ipogeo dei Volumni |
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| Funerary urn |
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| The entry to the main funerary chambers |
What is the keyword for Spello? Surely it is "FLOWERS"!!! In the summertime there is a competition on who has the most beautiful flowers, so all the inhabitants would put their best on the porch, for everyone to see. It must be magic happening to be there just then. During Infiorate for the Corpus Domini feast, people work all night long in order to create carpets made of flowers: a one mile-long flowering path in an explosion of colors and scents.
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| Panorama upon Spello |
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| Spello |
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| City of Infiorate |
Montefalco is famous for the excellent red wine Sagrantino, but there is more to it. In AD1249 it got sacked by Federico II (see the above link about Sicily) who also named it after the conspicuous presence of the falcons. Today the mount stands, but the falcons are nowhere to be seen. But besides a town door/gate named after the emperor, you will find a breathtaking panorama on the Topino valley.
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| Montefalco |
Another town touched by the Norseman is Bevagna. In AD1152 emperor Federico Barbarossa (Federico II's grandfather) set it on fire because the village supported the Pope. Today the most famous event in town is the festival Mercato delle Gaite: the whole population participates with medieval banquets, processions, taverns and challenges. It is reassuring to know that someone in the world still knows the craftsmanship. If ever a worldwide emergency situation occurs, something like in the series "The 100", well I know where to go in order to survive!
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| Bevagna |
Spoleto is surely the most important of them all, having become at a certain point the capital of the independent Duchy of Spoleto during the Lombards (more precisely from AD 570) and ruling a considerable part of central Italy. Some of its Dukes rose to become emperors during the Holy Roman Empire. Once again Barbarossa brought destruction in AD1155, in fact for the main part of its history Spoleto was a papal city, not supporting the Empire. You can observe the marvelous view upon the city and the valley from the majestic fortress Rocca Albornoziana. The city itself is all up and down the hill, so today there are plenty of escalators taking you to a desired "station", it is quite fun using them! There is a large staircase taking you down the hill to the Cathedral and the view is just amazing. Built in Romanesque style around AD1175, it has paintings from Filippo Lippi and a manuscript letter by Saint Francis of Assisi. There is a Roman theater hosting the Festival dei Due Mondi, a 3-week schedule of dance, theater and performances.
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| Spoleto Aperitivo |
I have skipped talking about Perugia and Assisi because they deserve a whole chapter for themselves. Lake Trasimeno and Marmore falls are surely worth visiting and are still pending on my bucket list, as well as Gubbio that I've only seen under the rain passing through in a car, so back to the bucket list.
Bottom line, I'll be back Umbria! How about you?
