Wild Wild Calabria

 This southern Italian region is probably one of the most underestimated ones. Besides TROPEA and LE CASTELLA that are famous even on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean, the rest of this wild region is almost untouched by the tourists. But just recently I've red an article on a noted Italian newspaper revealing the richness and diversity of this region. I'm just glad I got to see it as it is right now, before the building speculation is gonna ruin it (the process already started) and before it becomes a luna park for tourists, as it is today most of Apulia. 

In fact Tropea on the Tyrrhenian sea has splendid panorama corners and crystal clear water, long history too. But it is unbearable roaming among so many people, the noise, the disorder, overall chaos and insane prices are disturbing. 

Tropea

View on Sicily from Tropea at sunset

Scilla is on it's way to become the same. From these two borgo's you can see Sicily and the volcano Stromboli on clear days, discover history while roaming around, get lost in the small streets, definitely buy plenty of souvenirs and have a pricy lunch/dinner with breathtaking panorama. 

Scilla

But if you go to Capo Vaticano, there are plenty of fascinating beaches that you can reach only by climbing and trekking (but the walk is definitely worth it! Just take some water and food with you because you'll find only nature there. Don't forget to take your trash back with you!). 

Capo Vaticano

Pizzo is another little borgo on the Tyrrhenian that is famous for the ice-cream TARTUFO ( Gelato tartufo), you have to try the original! For those who studied Italian history, Gioacchino Murat - king of Naples, was held captive and died in the Castle of Pizzo.

Vibo Valentia is a borgo close by on the hill where you can visit a splendid Castle that follows the usual ownership path as most of the south Italian castles: ROMAN fortification >>> BYZANTINE fortress >>> NORMAN/SWABIAN castle >>> ANGEVIN palace >>> ARAGONESE mansion >>> BORBONESE prison. Keep this in mind as all the upcoming castles I am gonna talk about had the same, about 2000 years long, transformation journey.

Vibo Valentia

Reggio Calabria is the biggest town in the region and it has the most fascinating Archeological Museum (where I spent 5h!!!) and where famous BRONZI DI RIACE are exposed (bronze nude statues of Greek warriors from 450BC that were found under sea in 1972 close to Riace, testimony of Magna Grecia's heritage). Reggio has a long and tortuous history as it was situated in the middle of the most important sea trading roads. But that was it's strength and weakness too, because it got sacked many times, favorite pray to the pirates. From Reggio you can closely see Sicily or even go for a tour by boat.. I would advice you to keep it as a very last destination, so everything you've learned on the way is gonna be confirmed by the museums rich explanations and tour. Or as the very beginning of your journey, so that you can first learn what you're about to see and then actually go and see it (might be the most comfortable option as Reggio is connected by sea, land and especially air, while the rest of the region - not really).

Reggio Calabria

But I am here to talk about those hidden jewels on the IONIAN COAST that nobody talks about and only a few visit. I've only met some German and Dutch here and there. Be ready for a lot of driving, narrow streets with holes and  gravel. no illumination, hairpin bends on the top of the mountains, abandoned villages and mesmerizing panoramas!

Going south from Reggio and turning towards the mountains after Saline Ioniche, the first adventure starts immediately, destination Pentidattilo, the abandoned village. Now this is just the first and probably the most touristic one from many in this area. This borgo takes its name from the rock form that looks like 5 fingers and the village is built among the rock, it's one all together. Pentidattilo has a tremendous history linked to the massacre of enemy families Alberti and Montebello, in fact it is believed to be a ghost town. But there are still some brave artisans trying to keep it alive by selling souvenirs and typical art works. Nobody lives there though, the new village is 1km away.

Pentidattilo

For the next one you might want to spare the whole day because it is extremely difficult to reach, clearly in the lands of Aspromonte National Park. But the view is breathtaking and the history uniquely fascinating. Roghudi Vecchio is a completely abandoned village (I'd say a real ghost village) that lost its population in 1973 due to the heavy floods and landslides. Fun fact is that you can find fixed nails next to the houses that were used to bind the children to the ankle. No, it is not some horror outback movie, but simply to prevent them from falling down the ravine while playing. It is a bit creepy though. To dissuade you even more from this venture, you might see some abandoned cars in the ravine on the way, probably fell and exploded, who knows! But I met a very generous "new age" shepherd (as in they're not using donkeys to move around anymore, but the indestructible Panda 4x4) who was looking after his goats and gave us precious advices on the way. 

You might wanna stop in Bova before or after visiting Roghudi (inevitably on the way), it has been awarded with "orange flag" as one of the most beautiful Italian borgo's.

Close by on the coast in Palizzi Marina is the most southern point of Italy, the tip of the boot, with the view on open sea, Ionian becoming Mediterranean. Imagine how many Saracen pirates, Crusaders, Knights of Saint John and royal fleets has this spot seen!

Tip of the boot, most southern point of Italian peninsula

Another semi-abandoned village is Staiti. I literally met only 4 people. It is very scenic and here is where i found plenty of doors with the paintings and famous quotes such as "who desires to see the rainbow, has to learn to love the rain" by Paolo Coelho. Just before the village on the hill, if you take a narrow road on the left, you'll reach the splendid Abbey dated from the Byzantines with originally Greek orthodox cult.

Staiti

At this point you're heading north, all on the Ionian Coast. A must see borgo is Gerace, full of mysterious history, beauty and panorama. The most imposing cathedral of Calabria is on this hill where the ancient population of Locri escaped from the coast, haunted by the Saracen pirates. Gerace used to have around 100 churches, but today "only" 17 are left (for the population of 2600 people on 35km!). Gerace's castle was built by the Byzantines on a naturally isolated rock and the only connection to the village was by a drawbridge. The castle was almost impregnable, in fact it was the main shelter for the population during the Saracen raids on the coast. Arabs finally managed to take it only after repetitive attacks and held it just for some decades, until the Norman liberation.

Gerace

Stilo is another interesting borgo, this time very much alive, although reconstruction is needed in  many corners, starting from the cathedral which is closed and unused!!! There are plenty of hermit caves around Stilo, but the absolute protagonist is Cattolica, a Byzantine orthodox church from the 9th century built of brick with vivid frescoes in the interior. In AD 1577 the church was converted to the latin rite, but some inscriptions in Arabic led the scholars to suspect it might have been historically used as a Muslim oratory too. 

Stilo

Going deeper to the mountains of Serra (just in between the two coasts, Tyrrhenian and Ionian), there is a little jewel of mountain town that will make you believe you are on the Alps or Dolomites. Serra San Bruno is such a parallel reality, you will completely forget you are in the south of Italy! The place is famous for its Charterhouse, home to the Carthusian order who's very founder was San Bruno in Grenoble, French Alps. Bruno received some land in Italy from Ruggero the Norman around AD 1080, so he founded the second Charterhouse right here in Serra San Bruno. This religious order still exists today and they produce a special Elixir made of 50 herbs which is very healthy. The receipt is still a secret and only two brothers at a time know half of it, then it gets passed on to the following oldest brother and so on.

Serra San Bruno

Back towards the coast there is another semi-abandoned town of Badolato. It must be very strange and a bit creepy living in a town where around you there are only abandoned houses and at the end of the steep street there might be another inhabited house. Tourists come to visit, artists come to create and get some peace. You have to climb town to get to the church, but the view on the sea coast is amazing.

Next seaside town is Soverato, quite famous and immediately you can see constructions. I worked there in 2007 as an entertainer in a touristic village, ha! The pay was shitty, the work was extreme, but it was worth it if you like performing on a stage and all the camaraderie that comes along!

Before getting to Squillace borgo, on the seaside you will find le vasche di Cassiodoro, natural formation of the rocks forming basins that were used for fishing. The area is already far too much touristic, in fact there are many abusive constructions up to this hostorical point. Much more fascinating is the borgo of Squillace up the hill where you can visit the Castel under the sound of medieval music. Borgia family (yes, the ones from Florence!) got this Byzantine-Norman Castle by marriage. In fact nearby there is a small village named by the very Prince who saved the population from pestilence by moving them to a new settlement that he named by his family name: Borgia.

Squillace

Next stop is Tiriolo, a legendary uphill village in between the two coasts of only 25km wide piece of land (narrowest point of Italian peninsula), where both seas are visible: Ionian and Tyrrhenian. Actually if the weather is good, from here you can even see Sicily and Stromboli vulcano. It is extremely fascinating and worth visiting at sunrise or sunset time. I had an unforgettable urban SAFARI on APE Piaggio, up till the top of the mountain.

Tiriolo

Cannot skip Catanzaro, capital of the region and the 2nd most populated town in Calabria. You'll be once again astonished how the cathedral is locked and out of use and the historical theater falling apart. Around AD 903 the Byzantine town Katantzarion got sized by the Saracens who founded an emirate and took the Arab name of قطنصار QaTanSaar. Between the 9th and 11th century Catanzaro was the first center to introduce SILK production to Italy and became the main supplier in almost all of Europe.

Catanzaro

On the Ionian coast only Le Castella  is popular and touristic, famous setting for the film BRANCALEONE in the splendid aragonese Castle which is still standing. 

Le Castella

Back on the mountain there is a fantastic town of Santa Severina with a majestic Castle hosting events, concerts and exhibitions and a mesmerizing view on Sila mountain range. This little borgo is full of life and the farmhouse I was staying at, just outside the old town is a definition of peace, quality homemade food, beauty in the middle of centuries old olive trees. 

Back to the coast  ancient town of Capo Colonna is today an archeological site. Home to Hera, the most powerful Greek goddess of fertility, maternity and generosity. In the 6th century BC the greatest temple of Magna Grecia happened to be  right here and Hera was the protector of the sailors. Even Hannibal worshipped her in this very temple. Only one Doric column is still standing.

Capo Colonna

Glorious Crotone was a complete disappointment. SIC TRANSIT GLORIA MUNDI. Not because the town is so dirty, old important buildings falling apart. But because the historical glory was so great, being one of the most important centers of Magna Grecia, that the modern destruction is just unacceptable. Seaside speculation in constructions on the other hand stands tall. Perfect example of modern versus ancient.

Crotone

Rossano holds a unique CODEX PURPUREI, a Greek illuminated gospel dating to the 6th century made in a Byzantine scriptorium for the Eastern Roman emperor. It is now UNESCO heritage as a precious manuscript containing "memory of the world". There is only a number of those around the world. Also I've had the best homemade almond milk ever!

Rossano

Codex Purpurei

A two faced borgo is definitely Corigliano Calabro: on one side of the hill there is the old town with typical historical buildings and the Duke's Castle dominating not only the borgo, but the whole Sibaritide valley. On the other side of the hill new town all under construction and total speculation of modernity. Beauty and the Beast.

Corigliano Calabro

Getting deeper into the Sibaritide valley, visiting Sibari's archeological rests and museum is a must. Founded around 700 BC by the Greek settlers, Sibari had 200 years of luxurious prosperity which arose so much envy that around 500 BC it got destroyed by the brother city Croton (speaking the same language, worshiping the same God's, rings a bell?). Reconstructed by the Athenese  with a new name THURII and then under Romans as COPIA, the town got finally abandoned around AD 400 after an earthquake. 

Further north, deep into the mount rage of Pollino there is Morano Calabro, a cute little borgo on the top of the hill. Of course I visited the Castle and learned some more. But the farmhouse I was staying in, just outside the old town, was a magical fairy tale place in the middle of nature, fresh air and excellent food. 

Morano Calabro

If you love those best seller medieval history books with knights and kings, visiting the Castle of Roseto Capo Spulico will make your head spin in a long enchanting moment of time traveling. This Federico II's castle is overhanging on the Ionian sea and since it was sold to a private, it is now a restaurant and lounge bar, maintaining medieval furniture and setting. You'll feel like a Castellana, so dress up for it! Or enjoy swimming in a crystalline sea just at the foot fo the castle, like I did.

Oriolo is a small village in the valley, surrounded by mountains. It has a great castle and cute borgo. The panorama around the valley just to get there is already worth the trip.

And FINALLY the last (or the first) borgo that you will encounter on the north-eastern border of Calabria region is Rocca Imperiale, little borgo on the top of the hill with a shape of a cake and the cherry on the top is the Castle (you learned that by now, right? Every significant borgo has a Castle and a Cathedral. The rest is optional). It is a spiral of narrow cute streets as much labyrinthine as inviting. Eventually you'll get on the top and enjoy a majestic view. If you wonder why all the houses have bottles of water in front of the doors, it's because of the cats.

And with this enchanting place I conclude my coast to coast journey in Calabria. Keep in mind a few more information:

1- most of the museums, castles and institutions are open in the morning until 12/13h and then from 16h. So there is a lunch break!

2- there is no transporting connection to all the mention places, so your only option is to rent a car. Drive carefully because the streets are not always clean.

3- do not touch FICHI D'INDIA (prickly pears), they are everywhere. English name suggest that they are pricking, but Italian one doesn't. Furthermore in Italian it is called "fig", not a pear. The prick is quite bothersome because extremely tiny, therefor difficult to expel.

4- last but not the least, enjoy the wilderness of this region, it means it is still genuine and natural!

Prickly pears - fichi d'india

Umbria, the green heart of Italy

 Have you ever been to Umbria? If you've heard about Assisi and St. Francis who founded the Franciscan religious order, then you know which region I am talking about. And you probably remember countless mountains full of olive trees. Mount Subasio towers over the vast valley full of small medieval villages that only have about 5000 inhabitants each or even less.

View upon Spoleto from the fortress

You can plan your visit in less than a week journey and still see and learn a lot. Probably you will go to nearby regions as well, but today I want to talk about Umbria only. Let's start with basics: it is the only landlocked region in Italy and the region capital city is Perugia, also a very important university center.

Since I booked my stay literally the same day I traveled, everything was pretty much overbooked or extremely over priced. It is important to stress about the fact that we're in August. In Italy. Translation is that you better stay at home if you can and save your money for September when the traveling is significantly more pleasant. BUT if you cannot, then book well in advance because WHOLE ITALY is on vacation in August. Anyway, I was saved by the gentle readiness of the friars of the Monteripido monastery. Not only the stay was comfortable, clean and private, but the view over Perugia was just spectacular! And their library is a must see.

Monteripido Monastery

So, Umbria: this region is bordered by Tuscany, Marche and Lazio, so no wonder it's landscape is astonishing green and the history is rich. In fact the region takes its name by its people Umbri, italic people who got absorbed by the roman expansion. During the integration under the Roman rulers, via Flaminia was build (we're still in 219 BC!). That road became a main vector in the region and it is still used today!!! Can you believe it?

Spoleto 

After the Roman Empire fall, there came the Ostrogoths, the Byzantines and the Lombards, so when Charlemagne conquered most of the Lombard kingdoms, some territories were given to the Pope who became the ruler. In the Middle Age the most common conflicts were between the Guelphs (supporting the Pope) and the Ghibellines (supporting the Holy Roman Empire). In my article about Sicily you will find some historical information about the Norseman in Italy. Well they got to Umbria as well, so following our favorite via Flaminia, we will visit a couple of those cute historical villages.

Just outside Perugia there is Ipogeo Volumni (Hypogeum of the Volumnus family), an Etruscan tomb dated around 3rd century BC. The entry is so small that you might easily miss it, but once entered you'll discover the biggest necropolis with many subterranean tombs which can be entered. In the museum funerary urns and other artefacts are displayed. That gave me some ideas about where I would like my rests to rest, kinda appreciating Etruscan tradition. The Volumnus tomb itself is accessed by a staircase that goes underground for several meters leading to the funerary chambers. It realy is fascinating!

Ipogeo dei Volumni

Funerary urn

The entry to the main funerary chambers

What is the keyword for Spello? Surely it is "FLOWERS"!!! In the summertime there is a competition on who has the most beautiful flowers, so all the inhabitants would put their best on the porch, for everyone to see. It must be magic happening to be there just then. During Infiorate for the Corpus Domini feast, people work all night long in order to create carpets made of flowers: a one mile-long flowering path in an explosion of colors and scents.

Panorama upon Spello

Spello

City of Infiorate

Montefalco is famous for the excellent red wine Sagrantino, but there is more to it. In AD1249 it got sacked by Federico II (see the above link about Sicily) who also named it after the conspicuous presence of the falcons. Today the mount stands, but the falcons are nowhere to be seen. But besides a town door/gate named after the emperor, you will find a breathtaking panorama on the Topino valley.

Montefalco

Another town touched by the Norseman is Bevagna. In AD1152 emperor Federico Barbarossa (Federico II's grandfather) set it on fire because the village supported the Pope. Today the most famous event in town is the festival Mercato delle Gaite: the whole population participates with medieval banquets, processions, taverns and challenges. It is reassuring to know that someone in the world still knows the craftsmanship. If ever a worldwide emergency situation occurs, something like in the series "The 100", well I know where to go in order to survive! 

Bevagna

Spoleto is surely the most important of them all, having become at a certain point the capital of the independent Duchy of Spoleto during the Lombards (more precisely from AD 570) and ruling a considerable part of central Italy. Some of its Dukes rose to become emperors during the Holy Roman Empire. Once again Barbarossa brought destruction in AD1155, in fact for the main part of its history Spoleto was a papal city, not supporting the Empire. You can observe the marvelous view upon the city and the valley from the majestic fortress Rocca Albornoziana. The city itself is all up and down the hill, so today there are plenty of escalators taking you to a desired "station", it is quite fun using them! There is a large staircase taking you down the hill to the Cathedral and the view is just amazing. Built in Romanesque style around AD1175, it has paintings from Filippo Lippi and a manuscript letter by Saint Francis of Assisi. There is a Roman theater hosting the Festival dei Due Mondi, a 3-week schedule of dance, theater and performances. 

Spoleto Aperitivo

I have skipped talking about Perugia and Assisi because they deserve a whole chapter for themselves. Lake Trasimeno and Marmore falls are surely worth visiting and are still pending on my bucket list, as well as Gubbio that I've only seen under the rain passing through in a car, so back to the bucket list.

Bottom line, I'll be back Umbria! How about you?