Blast from the past: SICILY

 After years of traveling in Italy that started in the '80s (my whole life basically), increased significantly in the new Millennium,  with my own astonishment I still haven't visited the largest Mediterranean island. Surprisingly enough, the right moment appeared to be under the Covid-19 pandemic. I traveled by ground and sea: crossed the whole Italian boot by car from north to south, made a short stop in Naples and surroundings and crossed the sea by boat; 11h of nighttime cruise from Naples to Palermo.

And there it was: first sight of Sicily at 6am under the sun-rising red light of Palermo. This city, founded by the Phoenicians in 734 BC, deserves by itself a whole chapter, but I'll only tell you what impressed me the most. Undoubtedly it was the Royal Palace (Palazzo dei Normanni) and more specifically rich mosaics of the royal chapel (Cappella Palatina), the best example of the Arab-Norman-Byzantine style of 12th century. But let me take a little historical step back.

Marsala

By the archeological evidence, there was human activity on the island as early as 12000 BC, but the richer evidence starts with the Phoenicians and Greek who in 750BC already had  several colonies. Carthaginians follow with dominations and wars such as the famous Punic wars against the Romans.  After the fall of Roman Empire in the 5th century AD, Sicily was ruled by Vandals, Ostrogoths and then Byzantine Empire. Around AD 827 the island falls under the Arabic domination until the arrival of the Normans. After the Hohenstaufen family comes the turn of the Spanish House of Anjou. Unified under the house of Bourbon with the Kingdom of Naples, it finally became part of Italy in AD 1860 following the expedition of the Thousand, a revolt led by Garibaldi that started in very Sicily at the port of Marsala (Lilybeum by Phoenicians, renamed Marsa-Allah by the arabs) and culminated with the battle of Calatafimi (from the arabic Qal'at Fimi, that in turn comes from latin Castrum Phimes referring to the defensive castle of Euphemius overlooking the town).

This dense part of information is to show how Sicily is rich on influences of other powerful civilizations that fought for it, dominated it, embellished it and enriched it with their own architecture (Greek, Byzantine and Norman are the prevalent ones), traditions and language (see the above Arabic names). And just to get to know better one of these civilizations who's ancestors are brought to us closer by the series TV Vikings, the ones who fascinated me personally the most...who are the Normans? As the word itself says (from the North), they were an ethnic group that was formed from contact between Norse Viking settlers of a region in France, named Normandy after them (Rollo's legacy!!!) and indigenous Franks and Gallo-Romans. After raiding the northern Europe (mainly England, Ireland, Scotland and northern France), in the Mediterranean they settled in southern Italy, liberating Sicily from 250 years long domination by the Saracens (Muslim Arabs). They adopted customs and language of the territories where they settled which made the acceptance by the dominated locals much easier.

So there I was, exploring  by car west-northern and southern part of the island, but my oh my if there are many things to see and learn! Two weeks exploring were just enough for half of the island! So I've made a vow to go back one day and visit the eastern part (Messina, Catania, Ragusa, Siracusa, Taormina being the most important visiting sites on the East, along with the volcano Etna). 

SO WHERE HAVE I BEEN? Take a map or google Sicily and follow me: the northern coast starting from Cefalù towards Palermo and Trapani, then south to Marsala and Mazara del Vallo; then back towards East around Agrigento and cutting the island in half with Caltanissetta and Enna. Of course numerous internal small towns were on the list and on the way. Some days I would visit 3-4 towns in a day. Small as a village, but with too much civilization and history not to be called "town".

WHAT HAVE I SEEN? Many many castles (basically each bigger city has one and its mostly from the Arabic - Norman age), archeological sites (Phoenician - Greek - Carthaginian age), temples and churches (Roman and Byzantine age) and beautiful emerald green and sapphire blue sea with sandy and rocky beaches. A lot of olive trees and wine grape fields.

WHAT DID I LIKE THE MOST?

Extractions of memories and flashes are still vivid in my eyes, so I'll try to picture that for you.

1. Majestic Cathedral of Monreale, little town on the hill just outside Palermo. Cathedral is not that impressive from outside as from inside with unique mosaics. With an additional ticket you can visit the hidden corridors and high balcony reaching the very top of the cathedral and from there you get to see the coast up to Palermo! 

   

   View from the Cathedral's top

   
   
2. Colorful village near Partinico decorated in vivid blue and yellow plaster in Gaudì style. 
   
   

   

   Partinico in Gaudì style

   
   
3. Castle of Euphemius has a breathtaking 360 view on the valley including the ancient Temple of Segesta and the hostoric city of Calatafimi, as well as Garibaldi's battlefield of the Expedition of the Thousand. 

   

   Calatafimi

   
   
4. Delicious dinner at the port of Castellamare Golfo, maritime village with a Castle by the sea, noted for having been the birthplace of many American mafia figures (Italian mafia in New York), it is also famous for being partly set for "Ocean's Twelve".
5. Sunset swim on the stony beach at San Vito lo Capo where Alas, I lost my handwatch! 

   

   San Vito lo Capo

   
   
6. Mesmerizing sunset at the Trapani port and delicious dinner at the legendary Restaurant "Antichi sapori" that only the locals know about (and now YOU as well!) 

   

   Trapani

   
   
7. Intoxicating smell of almond paste sweets in the small streets of Erice (you might gain weight just by looking at that crazy variety of cookies!). 

   

   Erice

   
   
8. Rose color of salty waters in Mozia, where salt is produced and exported in whole Italy.
9. Luxurious Hotel Carmine in the very city center of Marsala (yes, that's where the famous liquor is produced) and the museum of the Punic ship dated 3rd century BC. 

   

   Marsala

   
   
10. Strong Arabic spirit in Mazara del Vallo, from the language to the culinary art and a large minority of Tunisians in Kasba, being the closest point in Sicily to Africa, precisely Tunisia. 

    

    Mazara del Vallo

    
    
11. White labyrinth made of concrete at Gibellina Vecchia as a memorial to the village completely destroyed by the earthquake in 1968 and rebuilt 11km from the old one. 

    

    Cretto di Burri at Gibellina Vecchia

    
    
12. Massive archeological site at Selinunte on the hill looking over the sea, imagining the rich history it has to tell: founded by the Greek settlers in 651 BC, it had a happy, rich and dangerous situation as all the places on the border. In 409 BC it got utterly destroyed by the Elyminians and Carthaginians in one of the most terrible massacres of the ancient age. It became Carthaginian, but after the 1st Punic war it got completely abandoned. In Christian - Byzantine and Arabic era there were small communities living among the ruins, but in the  Middle Age, following a strong earthquake it got forgotten until the discovery in AD 1823. Fascinating, isn't it? 

    

    Selinunte

    
    
13. Rose - orange - purple burning seafront sunset in Sciacca and the delicious calamari with pistachio dinner, after the steep climb to the city center which stands on the top of the hill. 

    

    Tired after million climbing steps in Sciacca

    
    
14. Entertaining swim among the pool-like coves next to the striking white Scala dei Turchi, a limestone cliff on splendid crystal waters. It derives it's name (Scale of the Turks) from the historical frequent raids by the Moors ( Mediterranean Berber pirates) who the locals wrongly exchanged for Turks. Ha ha ha 

    

    Scala dei Turchi

    
    
15. Legendary Agrigento was one of the leading cities of Magna Grecia (with around 200.000 inhabitants in the 6th century BC!), called Akragas by the Greeks, Agrigentum by the Romans, Jirjant by the Berber Arabs and finally Girgenti by the Normans. It has much to offer starting from the ancient Valley of the Temples, small part of the Ellenic Akragas mostly unexcavated  until today. During the Vandalic and Ostrogoth Kingdom population retired on the hill and it's medieval structure is still visible today. 
    
    
    
    
    
    
16. Following the steps of italian writer Sciascia in his native town Racalmuto.
17. Visiting an exibition by the rebel artists of Favara.
18. Discovering a cave Calathansuderj and learning it was a hiding place since the Arabic age.
19. From the Arabic Qal'at al Nisa (meaning Fort of the Women"), italianized Caltanissetta, the city followed the usual historic domination order as the rest of the island. But what is interesting about this town is the extensive mining of sulfur from the '800 that brought an economic boom and title "sulfur capital of the world" until the WW2 when the foreign competence overpowered the industry and the city fell in poverty still visible today.
20. Navel of Sicily, city on the summit of a gigantic hill in the middle of the island is Enna and from the Norman Castle you can see, when the sky is clear, as far away as to the volcano Etna! I couldn't stop gazing the magnificent panorama at sunset, so aperitivo time came by quite fast. It is the highest Italian provincial capital at 931m above sea level. Originally called Henna, named by the Romans Castrum Hannae, by the Arabs Qasr Yannah and by the Sicilians Castrogiovanni, it only regained the original name with Mussolini in 1927. Enna is also where a Roman slave Euno started the first EVER servile uprising in 136 BC, that is 60 years before Spartacus. 

    

    Enna

    
    
21. Officialy founded (but pre-existing) in AD 1093, with the splendid and massive Norman Castle on the top of the rocky cliff, Caccamo is a perfect representative of medieval customs with the still active yearly competition of "elezione della Castellana di Caccamo", a long procession that sees ladies, Knights and flag-wavers parading in period customs. I tried to apply, but in order to be elected you need to be a resident for at least 15 years. No time traveling for me! 

    

    Castle of Caccamo

    
    
22. Cefalù is probably my favorite place so far. Maybe for the delicious food or the funny swim among the cliffs in a jacuzzi-like tabs, or the architecture of the city with the cathedral attached to the rock that is watching over the city (in fact the Greek called it Kephaloidion, for the rocks shape like a head). Small colorful streets are so romantic and cute and that's where I bought my first Coppola cap, a traditional kind of flat cap typically worn in Sicily. 

Cefalù

Completing the circle with Palermo, if you want to go deeper into the island's customs, I am advising a book that I found in a second hand library titled "Calvello il bastardo" by Luigi Natoli. It is set in 1792 still monarchic Palermo and it gives you a clear picture of the society, traditions and customs of the age. From the actual historic events to the romance and suspense, nothing is missing in this easily flowing bestseller.

View on Palermo from the hotel balcony

I didn't mention so far the Mafia, but it appears quite inevitable when talking about Sicily. It is not my homework to teach the history or discuss about it, but I will mention the still visible traces that I saw all along my journey, mostly in the internal area around Corleone. I am talking about the "usual" summer fires, manmade arsons as a revenge by the mafia for the confiscated lands organized today by the state cooperatives. Some of those fires in the areas that can self heal are rejuvenating for the flora, but I saw entire fields of olive trees burning. 

WHICH FOOD SHOULD YOU TRY IN SICILY? 

• Undoubtedly granita siciliana (Sicilian slushie) made of real almond or pistachio, no syrup. You will recognize the difference once you try the real one unique taste, but unfortunately the industrial made granita is being sold more and more as the traditional one is more expensive and difficult to prepare. The best ones I've tried are in bar "Morocco" in front of the Palermo cathedral and in a cute bar in Sciacca.
• Almond paste sweets in a rich variety of forms and flavors: there are plenty of artisan pastry shops in Erice.
• Canolo siciliano is a typical world known Sicilian sweet, but I am not so crazy about it. Still, give it a try!
• Cassata siciliana, it's the typical Eastern cake made in Palermo 
• Fish-based pasta, because fish in Sicily is fresh, tasty and they know very well how to cook it, so that you'll lick your fingers until the last drop of the sauce!
• Fish-based cous cous is widely consumed around Trapani area.
• Arancino siciliano is a fried rice ball with a melted heart in cheese or meat.
• Caponata is the eggplant Parmigiana, loved in whole Italy, but originally from Sicily.

I will close this chapter by remembering the extreme heat even though I traveled in September. After all in Sicily we're so close to Africa that I would gaze the sea and think about my Tunisian friends on the other side. That heat didn't disturb me at all, it actually felt quite familiar: after 6 years spent in the Emirati desert, nothing under 40" Celsius is too much.

Mettiti nei miei panni .................................................. IN YOUR SHOES

Avete mai pensato alla vita delle vostre scarpe? Io no, ma proprio mai fino a quache giorno fa. 

Chissà quante paia ho indossato nella mia vita? Chissà quante invece sono rimaste nell'armadio a guardare uscire le altre senza aver mai provato la stessa gioia di esplorazione. Ma magari erano delle scarpe pigre a cui stava bene rimanere al calduccio pulito e sicuro tutto il tempo e ascolare solo i racconti umidi e puzzosi delle altre.

E quando vengono mandate al primo lavoro (nel negozio) dove devono sfoggiare tutto il loro splendore per venire scelte? Chissà che padrone si immaginano o quale preferiscono? 

Magari quelle Sketchers comprate a Chicago si aspettavano una padrona tutta fashion e pulizia, di essere sempre intonate con l'abbigliamento e pulite ogni qual volta qualche polvere ne ombreggia lo splendore. Camminare per le strade comode, ordinate, pulite, fare poca fatica e molto glamour? 

La scarpetta di cioccolato dal Chocoshow di Bologna

E invece si sono trovate con questa instancabile camminatrice a marciare sul sito archeologico di Selinunte in Sicilia (ed è proprio lì che mi è venuto questo pensiero!). Una che fa in media dai 10 ai 20km al giorno a piedi. Una che ama esplorare cammini nuovi, presumibilmente mai percorsi (o meglio dire poco percorsi). Arrampicarsi sulle montagne, sugli alberi, nel deserto, ma insomma: poco cemento! Dopo tutta quella fatica si aspetterano almeno una spolverata, se non un bagnetto. Dopotutto hanno sudato tanto e provveduto al massimo comfort.

Per non parlare delle ballerine che sognavano di visitare teatri, sentire la freschezza dell'erba nei parchi durante un picnic oppure salire sul palcoscenico durante un concerto corale. E invece si sono trovate a VOLARE! Passare più tempo in aria che per terra. E che aria poi: quella riciclata, secca degli aerei! E sempre a contatto con quelle calze di nylon, che fastidio! Certo, la vista dall'ufficio non ha prezzo, che si tratti di mari, monti, isole o deserto. O semplicemente un cielo stellato. Ma a volte può risultare un pò claustrofobico, sopratutto se ci sono altre scarpe antipatiche. Che sollievo quando, dopo ore e ore di clausura, atterrati a Londra e aperto la porta, arriva un freschissimo soffio di brezza mattutina con sullo sfondo un'alba multicolore (penso che sia stata l'unica volta che ho apprezzato il clima degli isolani del nord). Ahimè, è la vita da hostess.

Put yourself in my shoes

Mia sorella invece è una che bada alle proprie scarpe, il proprietario perfetto. Le cura talmente tanto che dopo anni di uso affettuoso, quando le passa a me, sembrano completamente nuove. Le sue scarpe sarebbero felici se non sapessero che il loro servizio non finische con mia sorella. E io gli dò il colpo di grazia. Non c'è un terzo proprietario perchè dopo me sono da buttare. Ma quante avventure gli ho fatto fare alle mie scarpe!!! Solo a quelle scelte, ben si intende. I requisiti sono semplici: comodità, versatilità, estetica, non sempre nello stesso ordine. 

Quelle scarpette deliziose di un colore difficile da abbinare, potranno aver vantato 1 o 2 uscite ed è tutta l'esperienza che hanno. Oppure quel tacco 15 che tutti i sandali invidiano...magari non è mai uscito di casa, perchè troppo scomodo! Alla fine della fiera dipende tutto dalle aspettative. Se vogliono l'avventura come arrivare in capo al mondo, dovranno sopportare fatica e sudore nella forma di scarpe da tennis. Se vogliono una vita agiata e danzosa va bene anche la forma del sandalo con un tacco medio o una décolleté classica. Se gli piace solo l'odore di casa e famiglia, ovviamente sono delle pantofole. E se invece non vogliono lavorare, ma solo essere belle, beh torniamo al tacco 15 o un colore sgargiante.

Chocolate shoes and bags from a Chocoshow exibition in Bologna, Italy

Sembra quasi di parlare di certe conoscenze! Non vi siete riconosciuti in nessuna di queste? Andiamo, ognuno di noi ha delle preferenze e lo stile di vita si riesce ad intuire proprio dalle nostre scarpe! Certo, l'abito non fa il monaco e magari proprio quel giorno quando hai incontrato l'amore della tua vita, mezz'ora prima hai pestato una pozzanghera piena di rifiuti malodoranti oppure hai strappato le Converse sulla tua bici, oppure ti si è rotto il tacco, oppure hai macchiato le scarpe di tela con il gelato. Sono cose che capitano. Però la nonna mi diceva che la fine della guerra (la seconda guerra mondiale) si intuiva anche dalle scarpe dei tedeschi: non erano più perfettamente lucidate e a puntino come dettava la pedanteria del Reich.

Io faccio del mio meglio ad accudirle senza farmelo pesare (che sollievo quei macchinari di pulizia delle scarpe che si trovano negil alberghi! Li uso sempre). Ma la scelta migliore sarà sempre la qualità. Se sono ben fatte, si mantengono da sole. E durano!

Chiudo ricordando che...a volte la cosa più bella è camminare scalzi. Oppure, come dice Nutini, mettersi delle scarpe nuove e tutto si aggiusta.

Fairy flight MAN

Let me stop you right there before you start thinking that I cannot spell the word right or ask yourself how is it possible that after 6 years of flying I did not learn the right word for "flying an empty aircraft"?! ✋

Fairy?

Ok, ok, we are talking about FERRY flying. Doesn't it sound boring though? Isn't it just so much nicer to call it FAIRY flight? As in light and free as a fairy? Because that's what you are: empty aircraft=light aircraft, no passengers=you're free to do what you like! 

Ferry flight

Why on earth would an airline waste their money on a fairy flight? Well there are multiple reasons, like delivering a brand new aircraft to a customer, moving from one base of operations to another, maintenance operations or, as in my case, returning to base.

My first Fairy was after a diversion case on a HYD turnaround which I talked about in my previous post. Since we had an unexpected layover in Hyderabad, after minimum rest we were to bring back the aircraft (and ourselves) back to base. With no passengers, The whole experience was quite adventurous and it was impressive to see the Dreamliner with empty seats and only Crew on board. Being able to observe the panorama from every angle of the aircraft was unique. We felt kind of special, kind of Fairy light, you know what I mean.

My second Fairy was my last operational flight before the Covid19 quarantine, we're talking about March 2020. The majestic hotel in Manchester was still open only for us, as most of the hospitality structures were already on lockdown. It was quite hunting to find ourselves in that big Harry Potter Castle-like hotel which is a proper labyrinth, only about 25 people, all Crew and the rest totally empty. It was also sad to see that colorful lounge wrapped in silence and only room service available. On the streets people started following social distancing when grocery shopping, but generally UK woke up quite late regarding all the Covid19 prevention. Or maybe they're still living the dream, who knows?

Empty Manchester Airport, March 2020

Seeing the airport in Manchester completely empty was hard core movie style. As if we were protagonist of those horror movies about the end of the world and just waiting the moment when the zombies are gonna come out and rush at us. Still following all the safety protocols, that's our job, but hey. Talking to ourselves only. And then back to base. Strong feeling of a "last time". Last flight before the lockdown, last Manchester, last time in my favorite European hotel, last time in that uniform, last time spreading wings, last time Crew? I took it all in and preserved that energy. What was to follow is months and months on ground while the world is changing. Reshaping. Nourishing. Getting reborn.

Same song by Bublé applies. And I'm feeling...Good! Whatever you do, one thing never stop: DREAMING!!!

Boeing 787 - the Dreamliner

Lightning strike HYD

Do you know what is Diwali? It is a Hindu festival of lights celebrated between mid October and mid November. And that is precisely when, as by some game of irony, during my turnaround bound to Hyderabad (India), I had a lightning strike. A whole different on board lights festival!

But lets rewind. Peaceful departure, quite a calm night flight and Crew with only cabin trolley bag, since we were supposed to go back and forth the same night. And then through the pitch black night we heard raining, visibility zero. Couple of bumps here and there, but still ok. We latch ourselves on the jumpseats, cabin is ready for landing. Except the bad weather wouldn't let us! Bumps become more intense, visibility still zero, we can all hear the rain hitting the aircraft and then BUM, a blinding white light that showed me all the puzzled faces in the cabin, a sound as when a circuit breaker pops up at home and then darkness again. No worries, all commercial airplanes are manufactured with a conductive body, such as aluminum. Even the composite planes, such as the one we were flying on, are safe as long as they have the protective mash. Shortly after our pilot announces that we will be diverting to Bangalore. Another two airlines followed our example and diverted as well. That was not an aborted landing, as we didn't even get close to the ground, but it was a go around since we announced the landing with the control tower, but then weren't able to do so, until the decision of a diversion.

We finally landed safely in Bangalore at the first lights of dawn. Spectacular morning colors and a deserved break while the lightnings engineer is checking the aircraft for a possible damage, water tank gets topped up and petrol refueled. Ready to take those passengers to their festival destination, Hyderabad. Now we had daylight and the storm was gone, so we managed to land. But by that time the Crew wasn't legal anymore to operate the flight back to base. In fact duty hours surpassed 12h already. Sooooo improvised layover was the airline's verdict.

Diwali, Hindu festival of lights

We found ourselves in Hyderabad for a ground version (and more pleasant one!) of Diwali festival of lights! Yaaaaay! Thankfully our aircraft was a Boeing 787- 3 classes, meaning that the First Class had fancy amenities like pajamas, sleepers, toothbrush and socks. Just enough for our 13h layover.  But since then I have learned that some items are just essential to have on every single flight, just in case some unexpected situation like this happens! 

Make a list: t-shirt, leggins, flip flops, extra panties, toothbrush and paste, comb, make up, wet wipes, charger, little bag, tablet and a book!

Aborted landing CAI

This is something that you learn in the aviation academy and you train for in the simulator.

Aborted or rejected landing is when for some reason it is not safe to land anymore, so the pilots decide last minute to abort the landing. The reasons can be bad weather or technical issues, in any case the decision is made last minute, so there will be no communication about it, even though everyone will realize quite soon what is happening. Sometimes the landing gears already touched the ground when the plane goes back up in the air abruptly. The following action is to gain altitude, go around and attempt another landing. General rule is that after two unsuccessful attempts, it is advisable to opt for a diversion.

Thailand, Phuket airport attached to the beach

It can be a routine challenge, but when unfavorable conditions start to pile up, it can turn into a disaster. Do you remember that case of FlyDubai crash in Russia in 2016? I do very well, because just a couple of months after that I had my first rejected landing! It was a Cairo turnaround, demanding day, we all knew in advance. During the approach to Egypt pilots advised there is a sand storm in Cairo and the landing might be bumpy. Well, not only was it bumpy, but it seemed like the aircraft was dancing left and right all the time. At that time we were still cheerful and carefree as it is normal to have a bumpy landing. Until just before the touchdown we found ourselves attached to the back of the seat, heard the sound change and felt the abrupt motion of sinking before returning up in the air. That's how I can best describe the feeling of an aborted landing. It wasn't funny anymore. Too bad that we had 2 suppy Crew with us (newbees that just finished the academy and are doing their observation flights before finally getting their wings) and they were quite puzzled. The turbulence became so bad that the passengers started screaming and woooowing and unfortunately vomiting as well. I started to feel nauseous myself from all that shaking. Second attempt, fingers crossed. We are ready. But the weather doesn't get better and the landing gets aborted AGAIN. So that is the moment when I started thinking about FlyDubai case (peace be upon them), and began to worry. All the attention was on the pilots decision: divert or attempt again?! There were 2 more airlines who like us couldn't manage to land and were performing a go around as well for more than 1h. The situation was tense, the air was heavy, smelly and fragile. Everyone were serious and on alert. Third attempt. Shaking, dancing, shouts and then finally touchdown, we made it!!! A huge applause was heard in the whole cabin as a sense of relief was palpable. During the disembarkation people kept thanking the pilots who in this occasion came out to greet them. Cabin Crew included! I will not tell you about the mess in the cabin upon arrival. Looked like the hurricane passed our way!

And you would think that was the end of the day: I wish! We still had to operate the return flight and after the sand storm was gone we were safe to depart. On the way back we had a medical case, a diabetic person collapsing in the middle of the cabin, so we had to stop the service and assist him, since on the small Airbus 320 there isn't much space (he occupied the only existing aisle) and the Crew in economy are 2 (the suppies are there to observe only, remember?). Well it all ended well, paramedics assisted the casualty as soon as we landed. But back to base we truly thought among ourselves: "What a hell happened today?!". We were utterly exhausted from such a psychological effort on both sectors. After a day like that you just need to sleep and reset. Start over, thankful for a new day. 

I like to think about the new day with one of my favorites from Bublé "Feeling good".