ICN for Seoul (wintertime)

My last couple of times in South Korea happened to be in wintertime and it is damn cold in winter!

But I can totally say that it is one of my favorite destinations ever!

Itaewon district

I even had an uncomfortable adventure on my very last ICN flight linked to my passport: I changed it recently and informed the related responsible in my aviation company who hadn't done their job of updating the information in the system, so when I got to the passport control in Seoul, I risked to get deadheaded back as an INAD. Me, the Crew!!! It would all go well (we had a 24h layover during which the company could remedy the error in the system), if it wasn't for my Purser (the most senior Crew, basically our boss for a day)  who got so scared of the situation that she felt the urge to amplify the situation by warning the whole hierarchy (up to God) of my situation and putting it all on my back. If I  had listened to her, my very last layover in South Korea would have been spent in the hotel room! Thankfully I, at least. think out of the box, so after sorting the problem out with who was really in charge, I went out with my fellow Crew. And I am happy about it!

After the full immersion into the street food - and my oh my if there is plenty of it - we decided to visit a Cat Cafe. This is the only place on earth so far I've visited that has this kind of places. Basically it's a bar where you can take a drink and chat, BUT surrounded by cats and dogs! So instead of a kennel or cattery, this place is hosting homeless cats and dogs and offering them some attention by the animal lovers who are visiting. It was fun and enlightening!

Cat cafe

After this adventure there was some more street food and crowds with nice background music. You could hear it, smell it, feel it all. Let's not forget it was long before the pandemic, which feels ages ago. 

Our final research before the closure of the shops was of course about the cosmetics. Have you ever heard about the Korean cosmetics?! They are famous about it. probably because the population starts using cosmetics very early and even the surgical interventions are quite common among the Korean youngsters. That's too far for me, but I do appreciate the endless brands of premium cosmetics of all types. That winter all my fellow ladies friends got a Korean cosmetic product for Christmas. Myself included!

Unleashed Crew

I have to tell you something about my first thought of South Korea, we're talking about 2013 when I had my first ever layover in this incredible country. Also that time was summertime, so I will do another post about it entirely. This is just a sneak peak of my first impression.

I had an adventurous layover and colorful exploring! Next day while I was walking at the airport, on my way back with the rest of the Crew, I saw a huge map. Unfortunately I didn't have time to take a photo, but I observed it carefully. It was the map of the world slightly different from what we're used to see at school. Or at least I thought everyone in the world was using the same maps. NOT. Apparently in Asia they suggest an Asia-centralized map, where Korea is at the very center, Americas at the right and Europe on the very left edge. It was so weird for me to see that! But enlightening as well! Why not, it's totally logical! In fact I made up my mind that Korea is sort of a parallel world to ours: it has the same standard and technology, but fashion, customs, music and food is totally different and what I loved is that - it is not copied from the western world! They have their own and they value it, which is awesome in my opinion. From that moment it became one of my favorite countries in the world. Right here is the answer to your question "what's your favorite destination?".

ICN airport of Seoul

Epiphany

What an idea!!!!... to write about Epiphany on Epiphany's day!

As usual we need to take a few steps back (feel free to use my time machine) and learn from the past.

In fact my time machine has gone only in the past so far, but I'm confident it will bring me to the future some time...in the future. 

Ok enough of word puns and let's get to to facts. What do you know about Epiphany? If you are not Christian, you have probably learned it means a sudden great idea. An illuminating realization or discovery, enlightenment that will bring you to awe or wonder. And that is correct. However the origins of the word are old as the Christianity itself. 

6th January AD 1, more precisely 12 days after Jesus Christ was born there was the presentation of Christ in the Temple. That is the moment when 3 wise man (Magi) bring the gifts to Jesus new born child and have a manifestation of divine. An appearance, apparition, enlightenment. 

Today faith is a matter of ideas and personal choice. So whatever God you believe in, He is your enlightenment. If you don't believe in any God, you believe in ideas. Enlightening idea is...Epiphany. 

See how it all falls together? The word itself is Latin epiphania, derived from Greek epiphàneia meaning apparition.

A popular synonym of Epiphany is Befana. What is that? The right question is WHO is that. 

A Befana

Just as you can see in the photo, a Befana is an old, ugly, but generous lady from a fantastic world of fantasy that comes down the chimney the night before Epiphany and brings sweets and gifts to the children. Well at least to the good ones! The ones who have been bad get only the coal. So if you have been good, leave a big sock on your chimney in the evening of the 5th of January and expect to find some sweets in the morning, on Epiphany!

In Italy there is an expression for an ugly and u unkempt woman: Befana. Don't ask me how come the wise man became a woman and ugly too! What I care about is that she brings gifts, just as Magi did, she is a witch and even better: she flies!!! On a broom, but I'm sure all the Harry Potter lovers will appreciate that.

So Happy Epiphany from a dance group of little witches of Bologna, Italy!

Ps- I am dancing on this video too and you can find me easily: the one with Panama hat that, just as little witch of Hogwarts - Hermione, is able to be in two places at the same time! 

HOCUS POCUS!

Piedmont in wintertime

In order to spot the places in Italy that the (mostly English speaking) foreigners find interesting enough to visit, just pay attention to the names. They are translated! So you'll have Tuscany, Sicily, Sardinia and... Piedmont as the most visited regions. Then there are the cities: Milan, Rome, Venice, Florence, the Dolomites, the Amalfi Coast. But there must be some exotic sound of Italian language left, something not too difficult to remember, but tasty to pronounce even if you don't speak Italian, so we have Cinque Terre, Sorrento, Pisa, Bologna, Verona and San Marino who people tend to forget is an independent State, just as Vatican. 

So why is Piedmont so appealing? Well for the wine of course! I have myself just discovered the endless fields of vineyards that besides producing some of the best wines in the world, are extremely fascinating to see. The view is differently enchanting in all seasons, but somehow I prefer to go in Piedmont in wintertime. My first time was focused on Turin since the city has so much to offer for a whole holiday (from culture, history and art to events and cuisine).

It took Covid-19 to bring me back in wintertime, this time in a whole new perspective. I knew that with the Christmas 2020 lockdown coming up shortly, all the museums, castles, galleries are going to be closed and events canceled. Big churches were the only ones open, but in small villages not even.

Monforte d'Alba

So how to plan a short pre-Christmas vacation in wintertime (when you'd rather stay indoors because of the cold) and pandemic time (when everything is closed)?! The weather forecast wasn't helping at all: rains, fog and bad weather to come - they said. So where on earth am I going, right? NOT. There is a Latin proverb "Audentes fortuna iuvat", meaning fortune favors the bold. So despite the whole situation being quite discouraging, I didn't want to interrupt the tradition of a little pre-Christmas trip, which happens to be my birthday trip as well! To be honest it was his idea and The tradition started 8 years ago, when we met. Who am I talking about? Well the Ambassador, of course, in other words my soul mate. But that's another very long story and I am going out of the topic.

Guarene

Ok, so in a day I decide and pack up, following day on the road. And that's exactly what this trip is going to be: on the road! You better have a comfortable car, possibly with a sliding roof and warmer seats. Destination LANGHE and MONFERRATO. Plenty of panorama everywhere and a route full of small towns to visit. Yes, because if you're not visiting any insides (museums, castles etc), it is going to be quite a short visit of outdoor landscape and you'll quickly reach a certain (30+) number of places in just 3-4 days of journey, not even enough time to remember all the names! In each you'll stop to observe the panorama, read the information about relevant facts, take a photo, grab a drink or lunch and take a stroll where possible. A perfect place for a layover in the middle of it all is the city of Asti. 

Belvedere Langhe

So going north you'll explore the lands of Monferrato dynasty, lots of little hills that look like Panettone and hidden jewels in the mountains like the Sacred Mount of Crea where there are 23 chapels hidden in the woods on the way to the sanctuary founded around AD 350. 

Sacred Mount Crea

Religion linked there is another hidden place where I happened to arrive in a perfect moment: at sunset! Million colors were changing above the mountains layers and reflecting the warm light on the legendary Abbey of Vezzolano. Legendary not because we all know about it, but because according to the legend, the foundation of the abbey dates to Charlemagne times. "Here he would be hunting , in the year AD 773, when three skeletons appeared to him from the tomb. He thus decided to build an abbey here entitled to the Virgin Mary. Historically, the abbey most likely existed in Lombard times, and later was enlarged thanks to rich donations. In  the 10th century it was destroyed by the Saracens. In AD 1002 it was donated by the King Arduin of Italy to Oddo of Bruzolo, whose heirs gave it to the prepository of Vezzolano. The abbey was the seat of a religious community until the early 19th century, when it was suppressed during the Napoleonic invasion of Italy."

Abbey of Vezzolano

Going south in the area of Langhe, there are countless little towns on the top of the hill and every single one of them has a castle and a church. Many castles in the region became private property or hotels, so it is impossible to visit them. But the choice is wide and one of my favorites was the Castle of Govone. It used to be a possession of the Italian royal family of Savoia and it is now hosting offices of municipality. Imagine your daily working routine in a castle with a million dollar 360 view on Langhe!!! 

Panorama from the Castle of Govone

Then there is a huge oversized bench just outside the walls of Monforte d'Alba. What's the deal with these benches?! Of course there is a WHY! We'll go back to 2010 and ask the American designer Chris Bangle about it. So the first Big Red Bench #1 was placed in 2010 specifically in Langhe area of Piedmont with the purpose of observing the infinite beauty with childish mesmerized eyes! I told you it was worth it! It became so trendy that the number of these benches is constantly growing (+100 in whole Italy!!!).

Monforte d'Alba

But even just driving around in the Langhe it is breathtaking how many vineyard fields are there! As far as the eye can see and beyond! Big houses with cellars, vineyard all around it and small house for the working tools in the middle of the field. Multiply that for every hill, color, altitude and you'll have an idea of what I am talking about. Here I am remembering Barolo, the only little town sited in the valley, instead on the top of the hill. Yes, it gave the name to the famous wine.

Then there are some bigger towns (the above mentioned are all between 1500 - 3500 inhabitants) as Asti, Alba and Vercelli in the area, definitely worth visiting. Asti is special for having an yearly Palio, less known than Sienna one. It is also a quite subversive place, I've found: there is a city government office titled to Mandela and there is an Ex desecrated church, today property of Municipality of Asti, which got turned into a punk lounge bar with fluo lights and punk-rock music!

Asti

 

Casale Monferrato

While approaching Vercelli, foggy sunset was on the way. Did I mention that I got 2 days of bright sun and a third day with a shy fog that was clearing up just in the right moments: when I was visiting something and taking photos. That much about the weather forecast! It was even quite mysterious to start the day on the road with visibility zero, like in the middle of a cloud and then see the landscape unwrapping in front of your eyes, to culminate in a rose, orange and purple misty sunset with a fog all around it. 

But Vercelli, besides being such a young city (where were the adults?! Was it because I happened to be there on a Friday night?), the main treasure is the Basilica of Saint Andrea. Monumental from every angle, gothic and red - visiting is a must. Especially the internal cloister. There is a Synagogue as well in town. I've found out that the massive old hospital was built because Vercelli happened to be on "via francigena", an ancient road and pilgrims route to Rome and Apulia, originating in France.

Vercelli

In Alba I bought the most expensive loaf of bread in my life: 5€! But man if it was tasty and lasted long! And for the chocolate gourmands, in case you didn't know, Alba is home to FERRERO! (I risked applying for a job, just to have chocolate 24/7!). I also found a new pair of wings under the Christmas tree on the main square.

Alba

And that is my last exploring "flight" for this curious (so to say) 2020. Still had a blast, but world balance is changing. Fasten your seatbelts for 2021, will ya? CHEERS

Extravergine

 Vi siete mai chiesti come si fa a ricavare dalle olive il magnifico, cosidetto "oro verde"? Quel prodotto di tradizione agroalimentare mediterranea e di fama mondiale? Prima di spiegare il processo passo per passo, vale la pena soffermarsi sull'aspetto storico che a me piace sempre esplorare per capire le origini dei miei interessi.

Eccelenza mondiale nella qualità dell'olio di oliva è legata al bacino Mediterraneo: dalla Spagna, Italia, Grecia e Portogallo in Europa, al Marocco e Tunisia nel Nord Africa, e infine Turchia e Siria nel Medio Oriente. L'Unione Europea nel suo complesso occupa l'80% della produzione mondiale dell'olio di oliva. Le quote minoritaire vengono prodotte nel continente americano, Australia e Giappone. Abbiamo imparato dunque che, dopo la Spagna, l'Italia è il secondo produttore dell'olio d'oliva in Europa e nel mondo. Hurraaaaaa al buon olio in casa!

Certamente ve ne siete accorti che se ne fa un largo uso anche nell'industria cosmetica: inizialmente per il sapone d'oliva e in seguito le maschere per i capelli, creme per il viso e corpo eccetera. Ma lo sapevate che un tempo si usava come combustibile per le lampade a olio?! Aiuto, che spreco!🙈

Olio d'oliva, sopratutto quello extravergine, è anche tra i prodotti alimentari più soggetti a adulterazione e  contraffazione, proprio a causa dell'alto valore commericiale. Tanto che l'ufficio antifrode dell'UE ha una vera e propria task force per il controllo e la tutela dell'olio di oliva.

Non nuoce conoscere anche gli effetti sulla salute, i benefici sul corpo, oltre a quelli sul palato deliziato: antiossidante, antiinfiammatorio e antibatterico. Da non dimenticare effetto benefico nella prevenzione di malattie cardiovascolari.

Veniamo dunque al dunque, sporchiamoci le mani! In realtà è altamente consigliabile utilizzare i guanti di protezione durante la raccolta, specialmente se si fa a mano. La raccolta in Italia avviene da metà ottobre a dicembre.

Step 1 - stesura dei teli o lenzuoli o reti intorno all'albero

Step 2 - raccolta delle olive con vari metodi: a mano, con una forca (a mo' di pettine) oppure con l'abbacchiatore meccanico (scrullatore) per raggiungere i rami più alti in minore tempo e fatica

Step 3 - raccolta delle reti e versamento in casse, stando attenti alla pulizia manuale delle foglie

Step 4 - si ripetono i primi 3 passi fino all'esaurimento degli alberi a disposizione

Step 5 - portare le olive al frantoio e il nostro lavoro manuale è finito qui.

Ci sono due tipi di oleificio. Il frantoio tradizionale utilizza la forza della gravità come motore della movimentazione del prodotto nel corso della lavorazione. Oggi è più diffuso l'impianto di movimentazione meccanica e idraulica a ciclo continuo. Io vi parlerò della mia esperienza personale con quest'ultimo.

Le olive vengono versate su un livello interrato che dosa la quantita in manciate, in modo che il processo succcessivo avvenga fatto bene. Si tratta della pulizia meccanica delle foglie mediante un soffiatoio (una specie di fon per le olive) e lavaggio delle stesse con l'acqua. Così pronte vengono di nuovo raccolte e, attraversato il processo di frantumazione, vengono raccolte in una specie di calderone ampio dove avviene la mescolatura meccanica. Questa parte del processo è la più lunga e importante. Quando il patè raggiunge una densità giusta, viene mandato al prossimo passaggio che è l'estrazione dell'olio tramite la pressa con il filtro. Ci sarà uno scarto, ma nel contenitore esterno che eroga il prodotto finale, esce fuori prioprio l'oro verde, pronto per essere consumato. Conviene portarsi dietro un contenitore per l'olio, ma nel caso ci sono delle latte vuote direttamente negli oleifici, disponibili per il consumatore.

Certamente quando hai seguito il processo dall'inizio alla fine e vedi il dolce frutto del tuo lavoro, il risultato diventa ancora più significante ed apprezzato. Ringrazio il Consorzio Terra di San Marino per avermi concesso di documentare ogni passaggio con tanto di foto e video.

Per chiudere con un cenno storico, le prime produzioni dell'olio di oliva -rigorosamente extravergine- e le tecniche di conservazione, sono stati sviluppati dagli antichi greci e romani. Tecniche rimaste immutate per secoli. Ecco a voi l'elisir dell'eterna giovinezza!

Blast from the past: SICILY

 After years of traveling in Italy that started in the '80s (my whole life basically), increased significantly in the new Millennium,  with my own astonishment I still haven't visited the largest Mediterranean island. Surprisingly enough, the right moment appeared to be under the Covid-19 pandemic. I traveled by ground and sea: crossed the whole Italian boot by car from north to south, made a short stop in Naples and surroundings and crossed the sea by boat; 11h of nighttime cruise from Naples to Palermo.

And there it was: first sight of Sicily at 6am under the sun-rising red light of Palermo. This city, founded by the Phoenicians in 734 BC, deserves by itself a whole chapter, but I'll only tell you what impressed me the most. Undoubtedly it was the Royal Palace (Palazzo dei Normanni) and more specifically rich mosaics of the royal chapel (Cappella Palatina), the best example of the Arab-Norman-Byzantine style of 12th century. But let me take a little historical step back.

Marsala

By the archeological evidence, there was human activity on the island as early as 12000 BC, but the richer evidence starts with the Phoenicians and Greek who in 750BC already had  several colonies. Carthaginians follow with dominations and wars such as the famous Punic wars against the Romans.  After the fall of Roman Empire in the 5th century AD, Sicily was ruled by Vandals, Ostrogoths and then Byzantine Empire. Around AD 827 the island falls under the Arabic domination until the arrival of the Normans. After the Hohenstaufen family comes the turn of the Spanish House of Anjou. Unified under the house of Bourbon with the Kingdom of Naples, it finally became part of Italy in AD 1860 following the expedition of the Thousand, a revolt led by Garibaldi that started in very Sicily at the port of Marsala (Lilybeum by Phoenicians, renamed Marsa-Allah by the arabs) and culminated with the battle of Calatafimi (from the arabic Qal'at Fimi, that in turn comes from latin Castrum Phimes referring to the defensive castle of Euphemius overlooking the town).

This dense part of information is to show how Sicily is rich on influences of other powerful civilizations that fought for it, dominated it, embellished it and enriched it with their own architecture (Greek, Byzantine and Norman are the prevalent ones), traditions and language (see the above Arabic names). And just to get to know better one of these civilizations who's ancestors are brought to us closer by the series TV Vikings, the ones who fascinated me personally the most...who are the Normans? As the word itself says (from the North), they were an ethnic group that was formed from contact between Norse Viking settlers of a region in France, named Normandy after them (Rollo's legacy!!!) and indigenous Franks and Gallo-Romans. After raiding the northern Europe (mainly England, Ireland, Scotland and northern France), in the Mediterranean they settled in southern Italy, liberating Sicily from 250 years long domination by the Saracens (Muslim Arabs). They adopted customs and language of the territories where they settled which made the acceptance by the dominated locals much easier.

So there I was, exploring  by car west-northern and southern part of the island, but my oh my if there are many things to see and learn! Two weeks exploring were just enough for half of the island! So I've made a vow to go back one day and visit the eastern part (Messina, Catania, Ragusa, Siracusa, Taormina being the most important visiting sites on the East, along with the volcano Etna). 

SO WHERE HAVE I BEEN? Take a map or google Sicily and follow me: the northern coast starting from Cefalù towards Palermo and Trapani, then south to Marsala and Mazara del Vallo; then back towards East around Agrigento and cutting the island in half with Caltanissetta and Enna. Of course numerous internal small towns were on the list and on the way. Some days I would visit 3-4 towns in a day. Small as a village, but with too much civilization and history not to be called "town".

WHAT HAVE I SEEN? Many many castles (basically each bigger city has one and its mostly from the Arabic - Norman age), archeological sites (Phoenician - Greek - Carthaginian age), temples and churches (Roman and Byzantine age) and beautiful emerald green and sapphire blue sea with sandy and rocky beaches. A lot of olive trees and wine grape fields.

WHAT DID I LIKE THE MOST?

Extractions of memories and flashes are still vivid in my eyes, so I'll try to picture that for you.

1. Majestic Cathedral of Monreale, little town on the hill just outside Palermo. Cathedral is not that impressive from outside as from inside with unique mosaics. With an additional ticket you can visit the hidden corridors and high balcony reaching the very top of the cathedral and from there you get to see the coast up to Palermo! 

   

   View from the Cathedral's top

   
   
2. Colorful village near Partinico decorated in vivid blue and yellow plaster in Gaudì style. 
   
   

   

   Partinico in Gaudì style

   
   
3. Castle of Euphemius has a breathtaking 360 view on the valley including the ancient Temple of Segesta and the hostoric city of Calatafimi, as well as Garibaldi's battlefield of the Expedition of the Thousand. 

   

   Calatafimi

   
   
4. Delicious dinner at the port of Castellamare Golfo, maritime village with a Castle by the sea, noted for having been the birthplace of many American mafia figures (Italian mafia in New York), it is also famous for being partly set for "Ocean's Twelve".
5. Sunset swim on the stony beach at San Vito lo Capo where Alas, I lost my handwatch! 

   

   San Vito lo Capo

   
   
6. Mesmerizing sunset at the Trapani port and delicious dinner at the legendary Restaurant "Antichi sapori" that only the locals know about (and now YOU as well!) 

   

   Trapani

   
   
7. Intoxicating smell of almond paste sweets in the small streets of Erice (you might gain weight just by looking at that crazy variety of cookies!). 

   

   Erice

   
   
8. Rose color of salty waters in Mozia, where salt is produced and exported in whole Italy.
9. Luxurious Hotel Carmine in the very city center of Marsala (yes, that's where the famous liquor is produced) and the museum of the Punic ship dated 3rd century BC. 

   

   Marsala

   
   
10. Strong Arabic spirit in Mazara del Vallo, from the language to the culinary art and a large minority of Tunisians in Kasba, being the closest point in Sicily to Africa, precisely Tunisia. 

    

    Mazara del Vallo

    
    
11. White labyrinth made of concrete at Gibellina Vecchia as a memorial to the village completely destroyed by the earthquake in 1968 and rebuilt 11km from the old one. 

    

    Cretto di Burri at Gibellina Vecchia

    
    
12. Massive archeological site at Selinunte on the hill looking over the sea, imagining the rich history it has to tell: founded by the Greek settlers in 651 BC, it had a happy, rich and dangerous situation as all the places on the border. In 409 BC it got utterly destroyed by the Elyminians and Carthaginians in one of the most terrible massacres of the ancient age. It became Carthaginian, but after the 1st Punic war it got completely abandoned. In Christian - Byzantine and Arabic era there were small communities living among the ruins, but in the  Middle Age, following a strong earthquake it got forgotten until the discovery in AD 1823. Fascinating, isn't it? 

    

    Selinunte

    
    
13. Rose - orange - purple burning seafront sunset in Sciacca and the delicious calamari with pistachio dinner, after the steep climb to the city center which stands on the top of the hill. 

    

    Tired after million climbing steps in Sciacca

    
    
14. Entertaining swim among the pool-like coves next to the striking white Scala dei Turchi, a limestone cliff on splendid crystal waters. It derives it's name (Scale of the Turks) from the historical frequent raids by the Moors ( Mediterranean Berber pirates) who the locals wrongly exchanged for Turks. Ha ha ha 

    

    Scala dei Turchi

    
    
15. Legendary Agrigento was one of the leading cities of Magna Grecia (with around 200.000 inhabitants in the 6th century BC!), called Akragas by the Greeks, Agrigentum by the Romans, Jirjant by the Berber Arabs and finally Girgenti by the Normans. It has much to offer starting from the ancient Valley of the Temples, small part of the Ellenic Akragas mostly unexcavated  until today. During the Vandalic and Ostrogoth Kingdom population retired on the hill and it's medieval structure is still visible today. 
    
    
    
    
    
    
16. Following the steps of italian writer Sciascia in his native town Racalmuto.
17. Visiting an exibition by the rebel artists of Favara.
18. Discovering a cave Calathansuderj and learning it was a hiding place since the Arabic age.
19. From the Arabic Qal'at al Nisa (meaning Fort of the Women"), italianized Caltanissetta, the city followed the usual historic domination order as the rest of the island. But what is interesting about this town is the extensive mining of sulfur from the '800 that brought an economic boom and title "sulfur capital of the world" until the WW2 when the foreign competence overpowered the industry and the city fell in poverty still visible today.
20. Navel of Sicily, city on the summit of a gigantic hill in the middle of the island is Enna and from the Norman Castle you can see, when the sky is clear, as far away as to the volcano Etna! I couldn't stop gazing the magnificent panorama at sunset, so aperitivo time came by quite fast. It is the highest Italian provincial capital at 931m above sea level. Originally called Henna, named by the Romans Castrum Hannae, by the Arabs Qasr Yannah and by the Sicilians Castrogiovanni, it only regained the original name with Mussolini in 1927. Enna is also where a Roman slave Euno started the first EVER servile uprising in 136 BC, that is 60 years before Spartacus. 

    

    Enna

    
    
21. Officialy founded (but pre-existing) in AD 1093, with the splendid and massive Norman Castle on the top of the rocky cliff, Caccamo is a perfect representative of medieval customs with the still active yearly competition of "elezione della Castellana di Caccamo", a long procession that sees ladies, Knights and flag-wavers parading in period customs. I tried to apply, but in order to be elected you need to be a resident for at least 15 years. No time traveling for me! 

    

    Castle of Caccamo

    
    
22. Cefalù is probably my favorite place so far. Maybe for the delicious food or the funny swim among the cliffs in a jacuzzi-like tabs, or the architecture of the city with the cathedral attached to the rock that is watching over the city (in fact the Greek called it Kephaloidion, for the rocks shape like a head). Small colorful streets are so romantic and cute and that's where I bought my first Coppola cap, a traditional kind of flat cap typically worn in Sicily. 

Cefalù

Completing the circle with Palermo, if you want to go deeper into the island's customs, I am advising a book that I found in a second hand library titled "Calvello il bastardo" by Luigi Natoli. It is set in 1792 still monarchic Palermo and it gives you a clear picture of the society, traditions and customs of the age. From the actual historic events to the romance and suspense, nothing is missing in this easily flowing bestseller.

View on Palermo from the hotel balcony

I didn't mention so far the Mafia, but it appears quite inevitable when talking about Sicily. It is not my homework to teach the history or discuss about it, but I will mention the still visible traces that I saw all along my journey, mostly in the internal area around Corleone. I am talking about the "usual" summer fires, manmade arsons as a revenge by the mafia for the confiscated lands organized today by the state cooperatives. Some of those fires in the areas that can self heal are rejuvenating for the flora, but I saw entire fields of olive trees burning. 

WHICH FOOD SHOULD YOU TRY IN SICILY? 

• Undoubtedly granita siciliana (Sicilian slushie) made of real almond or pistachio, no syrup. You will recognize the difference once you try the real one unique taste, but unfortunately the industrial made granita is being sold more and more as the traditional one is more expensive and difficult to prepare. The best ones I've tried are in bar "Morocco" in front of the Palermo cathedral and in a cute bar in Sciacca.
• Almond paste sweets in a rich variety of forms and flavors: there are plenty of artisan pastry shops in Erice.
• Canolo siciliano is a typical world known Sicilian sweet, but I am not so crazy about it. Still, give it a try!
• Cassata siciliana, it's the typical Eastern cake made in Palermo 
• Fish-based pasta, because fish in Sicily is fresh, tasty and they know very well how to cook it, so that you'll lick your fingers until the last drop of the sauce!
• Fish-based cous cous is widely consumed around Trapani area.
• Arancino siciliano is a fried rice ball with a melted heart in cheese or meat.
• Caponata is the eggplant Parmigiana, loved in whole Italy, but originally from Sicily.

I will close this chapter by remembering the extreme heat even though I traveled in September. After all in Sicily we're so close to Africa that I would gaze the sea and think about my Tunisian friends on the other side. That heat didn't disturb me at all, it actually felt quite familiar: after 6 years spent in the Emirati desert, nothing under 40" Celsius is too much.